For the person talking about how the hours are not that bad, But the FUEL CONSUMPTION is. that's the killer on Generator use.. They EAT.
To the O/P. the answer depends on how hard it is to run wires.. So I will describe MY inverter install, which was screwed up professionally.. (Ok, screw up was minor and I fixed it)
First, Location for INVERTER
Inverters draw a lot of current from the batteries so you need to have it nearby cause if you think Fuel for the Generator is costly, Try really BIG copper wires. Inverters also do not like "Fumes" from the battery so try a compartnemt NEXT to where the batteries live.. Run Heavy cable( (500 watt you can run standard starter cable, bigger .. Well mine are 0000 gauge) And for as much of the run as you can tape the two wires side by side, Either a tape wrap or a split loom.
Now we get to the type of inverters
MSW: avoid
True or Pure sine GOOD
= =
Power pass through/stand alone
Power pass through may be easier but read on, ,This type passes power when it is present, These are often small (500 or less) watt
Inverter/charger (This is a version of power pass through which also charges the batteries when shore power is present, it replaces your converter. This is what I have)
Stand alone: It just makes 120vac out of 12 vdc, that's all folks Read on
now find a route for the 120 volt wire(s)
What was done on my RV. a 30 amp breaker was added to the main panel, the screw up was they moved some other breakers,, ANd moved them wrong. I fixed later (put both A/C on same leg)
From this breaker they ran 10ga Romex to the inverter, in my case it passes into a plumbing panel, down through a plumbing hole in the floor into the wet bay, across the RV and then on to the inverter via existing wire passages, NO HOLES WERE CUT OR DRILLED save for the mounting screws
A second run of 10Ga was made back to a 2nd added Breaker box A type called a "Sub Panel" (no main breaker)
The power line for the TV's was moved to a breaker in this new box
Also the Microwave and GFCI
My inverter is 2,000 watts.
IF all you want is TVs.. i'd go for the 500 and below class. You can add a auto transfer switch (small one) where I have the breaker box, or even a manual transfer (cheaper) switch where I have the breaker box.
Nice thing about mine.. If power was lost in the Campground the TV show I'm watching would not blink, this computer would not blink, the Fans I'm hearing (2) circulating air would stop and I'd loose internet Main router is not in office) but all the important stuff woudl not even blink.
