Forum Discussion

chrisandoctavia's avatar
Jul 22, 2015

How to Haggle???

Some of you will already have seen an earlier topic I started asking about the wisdom of having an external inspection of our own done prior to purchasing an RV

Following the great advice given here - we are having someone inspect the RV tomorrow prior to purchasing it (assuming all is OK...)

Should we decide to go ahead - what is the best way of trying to negotiate a discount with the dealership?

It has been priced very fairly according to what we have had quoted on Nadaguides - but we would like to at least try to get a couple of thousand knocked of their list price

Should we go in and say that we will be cash buyers - what kind of discount can they offer?

Or...

Should we pitch a price say two thousand lower than they are listing it for and say - we are prepared to offer x for the RV

What has been your experience of haggling with a dealer?

Thanks for any advice you can give

Chris and Octavia

28 Replies

  • As previously mentioned used RV's tend to have less room for negotiation, especially if its a popular brand/model/ layout in good condition ( the factory doesn't make used RV's); however having said that do some comparison shopping on line (dealers tend to quote their bottem price on the Internet), then reasonably offer a price with a 10% discount and list your reasons (work it might need), your local and/ or repeat customer, your budget, etc. in the end it's worth what folks are willing to pay. NADA is a guide but not a bible-- figures are based on actual transactions as reported by dealers; low volume of a particular year, brand, or model will skew the numbers. Good luck!! Remember a good deal is a win-win where both parties walk away happy.
  • It's very easy to "haggle" on a new unit... not so much on a used unit.

    When we bought new, we just got a quote from RV Direct, added $ 2,500.00 to that price, and took it to the local dealer. After some back and forth, and the dealer throwing in some options, we agreed on a price, and that was that.

    There is an old saying that the value of a used vehicle is whatever someone is willing to pay for it. About all you can do to prepare is get prices on units of the same make, model, year and mileage, and come up with an average price.

    Then, decide what the most you are willing to pay, make the offer, and stick with it. The dealer may throw in some accessories to sweeten the deal, which is fine if you're still OK with the final price.

    Just be prepared to walk if you don't like the price, or if something just doesn't "feel right". Remember, that may be the start of a long term relationship with that dealer, and you need to be comfortable with it.

    Good luck, and happy camping! :)
  • You said it was priced fairly, so presumably you've checked prices on line and at other dealers?

    If that is the case and there really isn't any "wiggle room" you could still try to negotiate add-ons like a free tank of gas, a sewer hose and/or a discount (10% to 25%) on whatever you buy in their accessories shop if they have one.
  • "It has been priced very fairly according to what we have had quoted on Nada guides - but we would like to at least try to get a couple of thousand knocked of their list price"

    NADA pricing??? Are you freaking kidding me? I have no idea where the NADA Guide pricing comes from but it is a joke. They show my 2012 Nexus Phantom 23P Class C as being worth:

    List $84,279
    Low Retail: $51,250
    Average retail: $61,750

    I paid $47,000 2 years ago when it had 6,205 miles
    New today, they can be bought for around $60,000 nicely equipped (comparable to our 2012).

    NADA pricing is absurd and does not even begin to reflect the actual value of anything. Believe me, I wish my 3 year old (currently with 29,000+ miles), coach was worth $24,000 more than the original owners paid for it but give me a break! :S

    Why anyone would even look at NADA pricing, much less believe it as is beyond belief.



    For the record... as much as I love our coach, if anyone out there would like to offer me $84,000, heck even $54,000, I will deliver the rig to you anywhere in the continental united States at no additional charge. Just send me a PM and I will schedule your delivery. :W

    {Yes, I am kidding. If I sold our coach (at any price) my bride would kill me slowly.}

    :B
  • if this is a new rv, knock 35% off the sticker, then you want the bottom line figure tax and add on fee,s included, they don,t need to know how your paying tell them you might borrow the money, if they know you got cash they ,ll try and get more for the rv, be nice but firm on your bottom line, and go home if the won,t wiggle, you,ll get a phone call. on,your way out the tell your wife your going down the road and look at a another rv, just loud enough they here you. when you get there bottom price knock another couple grand off that. its the end of the season, and new models are coming out.
  • wont hurt to make a offer they will counter and you can work from there let them know you are expecting a lower price.
  • I'm not sure that being a cash buyer has any advantages except they don't have to wait for you to get a loan approved.

    If you finance it through someone (say a bank), they still get their money, the same as cash. If you don't finance it through them, then they may loose a loan commission if they're originating the loan for a lending institution. If they normally do the financing themselves, then they loose the loan interest.

    You might ask if they'll lower the price if you finance it through them. If they will, and there's no penalties for paying off the loan early, finance it and pay it off next week.

    Bill
  • You'll probably get a lot of advice. I'm not an expert but when I've had success:

    A) they knew we were serious buyers, and
    B) we were willing to walk away if they could not meet our price.

    B made it simple to do from our position, because we truly were willing to walk away.