inverter location

MrWizard wrote:
Tommy
i put my inverter in the side compartment by the entry door right under the converter i replaced
i also put a 4D 130# AGM battery there
from the inverter i ran 10ga outside weather proof round extension cord, same stuff used in RV shore cords
thru the compartment wall and along the frame back to the bay (passenger side) where the shore cord is and installed a 30amp female on the end of that cord,
i drilled a hole thru the step well {same area as the steps magnetic switch}(becareful of the wires in the bay) for the inverter remote cable,
and mounted the remote on the end of the counter next to the door, right there above the other switches for the step and lights

for fridge only, you can run the 120vac wiring right thru the bay and up into the fridge compartment

the GC's arent enough battery except for travel and the wire from the converter to the front is on the small side although it might be big enough do the job without the big 4D
i have pulled 12 amps from only the (2) "OLD' GCs up front running fans , TV, PC, etc.. but those don't have the startup surge like the fridge compressor
the fridge may only need 100watts running But 900watts momentary compressor surge startup
maybe add a microAir for starting the fridge (BTW i replaced all 3 batteries just 3 weeks ago}

i would not install and inverter behind the grill in the weather
how about under the copilot seat, or the storage compartment above the LP tank

my bounder is almost identical to yours
funny thing, i have the optional larger side*side fridge and NO sliding pantry
and if i'm level my ice dream is rock hard

i did the 120v fridge in the Safari DP, my previous RV
installed a Triplite 1200w powerverter
a real beast weighting 22# , its perfect for running a fridge

It's good to discuss with you again. Mine will be strictly for the fridge while rolling and the two 6v should be plenty. The wall by the copilot seat or the compartment above the LP may be my best choices. Thanks for the ideas.

DC voltage is hard to run lengths, hence the LARGE battery cables. AC current has little voltage drop in an RV. So, you want the Inverter as close to the batteries as possible, usually within 10 feet. You want the largest Battery cable you can get, both Ground and Positive. Doug

Tommy
i put my inverter in the side compartment by the entry door right under the converter i replaced
i also put a 4D 130# AGM battery there
from the inverter i ran 10ga outside weather proof round extension cord, same stuff used in RV shore cords
thru the compartment wall and along the frame back to the bay (passenger side) where the shore cord is and installed a 30amp female on the end of that cord,
i drilled a hole thru the step well {same area as the steps magnetic switch}(becareful of the wires in the bay) for the inverter remote cable,
and mounted the remote on the end of the counter next to the door, right there above the other switches for the step and lights

for fridge only, you can run the 120vac wiring right thru the bay and up into the fridge compartment

the GC's arent enough battery except for travel and the wire from the converter to the front is on the small side although it might be big enough do the job without the big 4D
i have pulled 12 amps from only the (2) "OLD' GCs up front running fans , TV, PC, etc.. but those don't have the startup surge like the fridge compressor
the fridge may only need 100watts running But 900watts momentary compressor surge startup
maybe add a microAir for starting the fridge (BTW i replaced all 3 batteries just 3 weeks ago}

i would not install and inverter behind the grill in the weather
how about under the copilot seat, or the storage compartment above the LP tank

my bounder is almost identical to yours
funny thing, i have the optional larger side*side fridge and NO sliding pantry
and if i'm level my ice dream is rock hard

i did the 120v fridge in the Safari DP, my previous RV
installed a Triplite 1200w powerverter
a real beast weighting 22# , its perfect for running a fridge

My converter is ok and staying as is. The 1200 watt inverter(with auto switch) is for the fridge only. I am converting my existing RM7732 Dometic from absorption to compression. I am hoping some folks that have placed an inverter in a unit similar to mine will see this and tell me where they put it.

If you still have the original converter seriously look into buying an inverter/charger/automatic transfer switch. Easy to install, even easier to use.

When you are shopping for your new 120VAC refrigerator make sure it is Energy Star rated.

time2roll wrote:
Inverter 1000 watts rated from what I read has always been plenty. I think you would be fine installing near or behind the electric fuse/breaker panel. Use the main 12v battery connection for 12v power. Use a small transfer switch to power the single branch circuit to the fridge. Just make connections, no pulling wire.

This is a suggestion that I like! I am a little leery of not home running the battery wire.

Inverter 1000 watts rated from what I read has always been plenty. I think you would be fine installing near or behind the electric fuse/breaker panel. Use the main 12v battery connection for 12v power. Use a small transfer switch to power the single branch circuit to the fridge. Just make connections, no pulling wire.

You need to find power requirements for the refer.
Then size the inverter to accommodate it and a safety margin. power requirements times 125% would be sufficient. I would not go over 150%

My 2 6v G2 batteries will do the job, The inverter will be used for the fridge when on the road. Boon docking is very rare. I'm gonna overkill with a 1200 watt. Just in case..... My fridge is about 20ft from the batteries. I want to run less length and smaller gauge cable. The AC side will be easier.

Have you done a energy audit so that you know your present batteries (whatever size/type) are adequate? Have you considered moving the house batteries to a locker behind the front wheels? Or inside with AGMs? Or elsewhere with new batteries and inverter dedicated to the new refer?

My inverter is 21' from the batteries or 42' of 4/O cable. Acceptable but not the best design.