Jack for changing flats?

Ha. That's funny. The roadside guy probably has one of those jacks in his toolbox.

With out a doubt the best combination is:
Good Sam's Roadside Assistance and this jack

One day 3,000 miles from home in my mother-in-law's driveway, I decided I would rather rotate the tires on the Navion/Sprinter than spend time indoors. The provided jack, in my opinion, was marginal at best for lifting the rear axel. After that, I opted to carry a jack from an F-450 work truck. A fleet service was mandatory for the work truck and employees were not allowed to service the vehicle. After the second time rotating tires on that RV, I started to think about letting someone else wrestle the tires.

It's a hand pump with oil reservoir and is connected the the hydraulic jack with a hydraulic hose. Those pumps are used with knock out punches, and other uses. Google hand hydraulic pump. Harbor Fright and Northern Tool are two places.
Some where on the net I learned how/where to drill and tap a jack to add a hi-pressure gauge. You can hook a hose in place of the gauge.

Dusty

What is a 'remote hand pump' Dusty

I use the 2 stage bottle jack that came with vehicle.
Remember to chock tires across and also diagonally from jacked tire for safety.

It can be very difficult to loosen lug nuts unless you have a lug wrench plus pipe extension to break them loose. Using a bottle jack on soft dirt/gravel to lift an RV enough can be dangerous. Best to wait for an emergency road service unless you are well equipped and know how to change tires safely. Tell road service about whether you have or don't have a spare wheel/tire. Carrying a spare loose in your RV "trunk" can be dangerous and inconvenient. Have tires checked for serious side wall cracking especially after tires are five years old by date codes on tires. If you hear or feel steady thumping, stop and have tires inspected for tread separation. When a tire comes apart, flailing steel belts can seriously damage underside parts of the RV and you might lose control.

j-d wrote:

pastorbillv wrote:

If it's the outer tire on the rear, I use my leveling blocks under the inner tire.


Very leery of doing this. Larger vehicles have a Stud with a Lug over it that tightens onto the INNER wheel. It's usually tightened with a Square Socket. Then the Outer wheel goes over that Lug then a large Nut secures the outer.

On the Ford Class C's, and I believe most other light trucks, both wheels slip over the studs then a Nut secures both wheels at once. Leaving the truck standing on one wheel, no nuts holding it, risky.

Probably won't come down, at least on level ground, but if it does, it's very likely to damage the studs and maybe the hub and wheel. I wouldn't do it.

I notice from reading pastorbilv's profile that he may to be towing an RV with an F350 dually pickup.

Jacking up the rear of a dually pickup tow vehicle to fix either an inner or outer tire in one of it's dual sets is a whole different, and easier, and less dangerous proposition (even if you leave the TT or 5'er hitched up) than trying the same on a rear corner of a Class C (or Class A) motorhome . There's way less weight on the duallies of a towing pickup than there is on the duallies of a motorhome.

j-d wrote:

pastorbillv wrote:
If it's the outer tire on the rear, I use my leveling blocks under the inner tire.

Very leery of doing this. Larger vehicles have a Stud with a Lug over it that tightens onto the INNER wheel. It's usually tightened with a Square Socket. Then the Outer wheel goes over that Lug then a large Nut secures the outer.

On the Ford Class C's, and I believe most other light trucks, both wheels slip over the studs then a Nut secures both wheels at once. Leaving the truck standing on one wheel, no nuts holding it, risky.

Probably won't come down, at least on level ground, but if it does, it's very likely to damage the studs and maybe the hub and wheel. I wouldn't do it.

When I first saw the post, I was going to reply. Same as you, both wheels are sandwiched together on the same studs, with the same lugnuts. Take the lugnuts off, and BOTH wheels are now loose on the studs. The way my Sprinter axle is set up the hub centric wheels have just enough hub to seat on and not an extra bit. Would be an extremely dangerous thing to do what Pastorbill is suggesting.

Charles

I took a bottle jack that I had and added a remote hand pump. I didn't like laying under our mh while jacking up the rear axel. And it's much easier to operate that pump while kneeling next to it rather than laying under the mh operating the bottle jack.

Dusty