tire changing jack

nothing!

The truck has a jack that works on the trailer. I carry one jack for truck and trailer.

When I had a tandem axle trailer it was easier to just roll one axle side up on a rock or curb which made the other axle tire come off the ground. They only have 2-3 inches of travel, so not much lift is needed. Then changing the tire was easy, and actually safer than a jack.

One tire holding up all the weight on that side (one spot on the tire) of the trailer may do so for 10-30 min while the flat is being changed vs a micro second over a bridge jump at speed which that weight on the tires isn't all in one spot.

schlep1967 wrote:

Lwiddis wrote:
Why do you assume I lift the flat tire more than an inch with my ramp? The tire on the ramp bears weight! Way off on this one, goducks.

Think this through a little. It doesn't matter if you are lifting 1 inch or 6 inches with the drive on type of jack. All of the weight is on one axle.
When you put a traditional type of jack under the flats axle you still have weight on the good tire's axle and weight on the jack under the bad tire's axle.

Example: 12,000 lb trailer, 2,400 on the hitch, 9,600 on two axles or 4,800 on each axle. 2 sides to each axle so 2,400 sitting on each tire.
Run one tire up onto a ramp it is holding the full weight of one side of the trailer or 4,800 lbs. Overloading that one tire.

Put a jack under the bad wheel's axle and lift and it is holding the 2,400 lbs for that axle while the good tire is still holding it's 2,400 lbs.

Which is really a moot point because when one tire is flat and or shredded, the other tire on that side is already overloaded and holding all the weight.

Going across a bridge jump will put more stress on all tires than you get when you lift 1 side with ramp under 1 wheel.
I use a ramp under the flat to lift most of the distance. It takes some force to work the jack when lifting. Just jack up to get the ramp out.

Lwiddis wrote:
Why do you assume I lift the flat tire more than an inch with my ramp? The tire on the ramp bears weight! Way off on this one, goducks.

Think this through a little. It doesn't matter if you are lifting 1 inch or 6 inches with the drive on type of jack. All of the weight is on one axle.
When you put a traditional type of jack under the flats axle you still have weight on the good tire's axle and weight on the jack under the bad tire's axle.

Example: 12,000 lb trailer, 2,400 on the hitch, 9,600 on two axles or 4,800 on each axle. 2 sides to each axle so 2,400 sitting on each tire.
Run one tire up onto a ramp it is holding the full weight of one side of the trailer or 4,800 lbs. Overloading that one tire.

Put a jack under the bad wheel's axle and lift and it is holding the 2,400 lbs for that axle while the good tire is still holding it's 2,400 lbs.

Which is really a moot point because when one tire is flat and or shredded, the other tire on that side is already overloaded and holding all the weight.

JRscooby wrote:

Seon wrote:


I don't know what make and model your tow vehicle is but my Yukon XL's scissors jack is the pits when I had to change tires on my trailer.

I bought a small 3 Ton Aluminum Floor Jack from Harbor Freight that's light and easy to stow.

Your luck might be better than mine. If I'm out on the road I'm very likely to be missing a very important part needed for your new jack to work; A floor. That kind of jack, the lift plate goes up in a arc. This is not a issue, if, and only if the jack can roll. If of anything but a smooth hard surface, the lift plate is likely to slide, and drop the load. Even on a "brush finished" concrete driveway, you need to watch close as it goes up.

Very true. I use a piece of 3/4 plywood with a floor jack at home on the gravel driveway.

Seon wrote:


I don't know what make and model your tow vehicle is but my Yukon XL's scissors jack is the pits when I had to change tires on my trailer.

I bought a small 3 Ton Aluminum Floor Jack from Harbor Freight that's light and easy to stow.

Your luck might be better than mine. If I'm out on the road I'm very likely to be missing a very important part needed for your new jack to work; A floor. That kind of jack, the lift plate goes up in a arc. This is not a issue, if, and only if the jack can roll. If of anything but a smooth hard surface, the lift plate is likely to slide, and drop the load. Even on a "brush finished" concrete driveway, you need to watch close as it goes up.

pfidahospud wrote:
I've successfully tested and used my tow vehicle jack for my trailer. I'm not sure why it wouldn't work for others.

I don't know what make and model your tow vehicle is but my Yukon XL's scissors jack is the pits when I had to change tires on my trailer.

I bought a small 3 Ton Aluminum Floor Jack from Harbor Freight that's light and easy to stow.

The Trailer Aid idea looks OK. But, 46 bucks is a lot.

just used my trailer aid in june. had to put board under it to get enough clearance. otherwise my truck's bottle jack is the back up.

Trailer-Aid here, also.
Used it many times at home, fortunately not on the road.