laminating DOW styrofoam to aluminum and wood

Thank you very much-
I have to find some of that "Eternabond tape. I have not seen it anywhere.

Good idea using scaffold and pac.

Cousin_Eddie93 wrote:
I used an 8x30' sheet of EPDM rubber membrane and 1/4" ply when I replaced my roof 4 years ago. If I were to do it all over, I'd go with the liquid roof roll on liquid EPDM product only because the membrane was a real pain in the arse to install. If you do go with the membrane, I found using a regular kitchen flower roller best for removing the air bubbles as you progress. Note, you will not be able to remove 100% of the bubbles. Not to fear, these will eventually disappear as the contact cement gasses absorb into the wood.

I'd definitely choose the rubber roofing over the liquid. We did a MH with aluminum roof (wood would be the same) with the membrane.

Here are some tips.

1. Remove vents, AC, etc from roof so you have a flat surface.

2. Clean roof with simple green and lots of water. Let it dry thoroughly. Repeat. Clean with acetone.

3. Apply adhesive with rubber rollers. Apply adhesive to rubber roofing. Wait until they are tacky before putting the membrane on the roof. Roll with (clean) rubber rollers to activate and thoroughly adhere the membrane to the roof.

For the membrane, there are some tips that made it easier to manage.

1. We erected scaffold on both sides and laid plank across and above the roof. The aluminum platforms at Lowe's would work better (I didn't have one back then). This allowed us to work on the roof without standing on the adhesive.

2. We laid out the membrane on the roof and cut it with about 4-6" overhang on the edges. Then we started at the front, folding the roofing in about 3-4ft sections at a time, then folding the next section over on top of that and continued until the middle. Repeat from the other end, resulting in a "roll" in the middle, folded in 3-4ft parts.

3. Started at back edge of roll and applied adhesive to roof and exposed portion of roofing. We slid a section of PVC pipe under one layer of the roofing, supported between the scaffolding. After the adhesive dried to be tacky, we used the PVC to roll out that section of roofing and "roll" it out over and attach to the matching part of the roof. (And using the clean roller to firmly push roofing down onto roof, as listed above)

4. We repeated until we reached the back edge. Then we stood on the new roofing (about 2 hrs or so to get the 3 sections adhered to the rear, so the middle was not "fresh" and pulled the remaining roofing back about an inch or two to get new adhesive applied all the way to the adhesive/roofing already applied.

5. We then made our way to the front like this. We applied stairtread edging all the way around the roof edge (6ft sections, I think), which does an EXCELLENT job of holding the edge of the roofing overlapped about 1" over the sides, yet once trimmed makes a very nice finished edge. Used rubber washered self tapping screws from my steel garage roof a while back.

6. I cut X's for the vents and such (stopping about 1" short of inside edge), tucked the roofing inside the opening and trimmed it so only (the thickness of the roof) a small "border" of roofing remained.

7. Used butyl tape to reinstall vents, AC, etc with screws and such as usual.

8. Tucked front edge of roofing behind an existing weatherstripping edge at the front and used eternabond roof tape (with white UV top) to completely seal the front. It is CRITICAL that you remove all bubbles from this tape! I actually made 3 strips at the leading edge, starting back a few inches and working forward with about 1/3 overlap. This made a very solid seal and looks today the same as when installed a number of years ago.

This roofing is strong, contiguous, and hasn't leaked yet. It has been a "permanent" fix.

I think our cost was about $300 for the roofing, about the same for industrial adhesive (buddy does roofing for a living), a little for stairtread edging, already had the screws, a little for the 3/4" butyl tape, a bit for the eternabond tape, rubber rollers with broom handles (Lowes, made for adhesive), acetone, etc. Maybe $800 or so, total?

Took about 3 days, including the wash/dry cycles and removing everything from the roof. We used a backhoe to lift the AC from the roof to the ground, then back. HEAVY! You could probably use the scaffolding with planking to lift or hoist somehow.

Hope this helps.

Cousin Eddie93-
Did you use 1/4" luan or exterior grade plywood? ACX?

Thanks for the reply
Pivot

I used an 8x30' sheet of EPDM rubber membrane and 1/4" ply when I replaced my roof 4 years ago. If I were to do it all over, I'd go with the liquid roof roll on liquid EPDM product only because the membrane was a real pain in the arse to install. If you do go with the membrane, I found using a regular kitchen flower roller best for removing the air bubbles as you progress. Note, you will not be able to remove 100% of the bubbles. Not to fear, these will eventually disappear as the contact cement gasses absorb into the wood.

Aluminum can expand quite a bit when the sun shines on it. It was very noticeable on my old travel trailer as the siding would become wavy in the hot sun. I assume Lazy Daze knows how to deal with this, maybe it has to do with using the right alloy.

Thanks for the help
I called 3M and they recommended an industrial adhesive #78,

I guess there are different ways to do this but I sure don't want to do all this work just to have the heat or whatever delaminate anything I have done.

If anyone knows of someway or something like an H-channel to connect two .040 aluminum edges please feel free. I am not using the typical .024 1" mesa on this. I am using flat .040 alum, 4x8x12. There is only one short section at the cab over that I would need the H-channel.

I am also going to risk using regular vinyl window sliders and single hung, rather than the radius windows. I have not seen this done but I cannot see why it would not work if it is all sealed properly.

As for the roof-Not certain whether to use alum. or 1/4" plywood, with a rubber membrane over that. Any advice on that would be much appreciated.

And if I can also find help with the door- I need to replace the frame and door as well.

Take care and thanks again

This is what I was planning to try.

http://building.dow.com/na/en/products/sealants/gspwallfloor.htm

I figure if it can bond foamboard to damp walls "forever", it should be good for a properly prepared substrate as a laminate.

I don't know if it resists flexing, but a laminate shouldn't.

Anyone used it before?

This is what I have used... http://www.northstarchemicals.com/literature/Premier/PI/Premier%20PB925%20aerosol,can%20PI.pdf

It will work for all sorts of laminating projects also.. counters, cabinets, headliner, etc.

I bought the spray gun, hose, and portable propane tank size container. The stuff is quick to be ready bond, doesn't let go at temperature extremes, easy to clean up any overspray. Get your stuff aligned correctly cause it will not let go once it touches itself. When finished, leave it pressurized with gun attached. Do not turn off the cylinder, do not clean the gun.. just leave it. It can set for years and still be ready to pickup and use. If you turn off the cylinder it will harden in your hose and gun.

Expensive.

Loctite and other adhesive manufactures make a product to attach Styrofoam to just about any material.
Loctite 300.

Yes, I'd use contact cement / adhesive.

Bill