Leaf Springs

Here is the company that I used for my springs.

http://www.springworks.com/index.html

I've done the spings on two moho's and a few trucks. Main thing is to have 2 floor jacks, and 4 jack stands that can handle the weight of the moho. While it looks intimidating, it is really pretty basic. Jack up axle, remove tires, stand the coach body, loosen ubolts, let down axle until ubolt shows movement, then finish removing ubolts and stand axle. Jack up spring slightly to remove spring bolts. Wrassle out spring and take to shop.

Everything is real big, so it is scary, but it is not a real hard thing. True, the springs can be a bit heavy, but not impossible to handle.

After the last set was installed, I pried the end of the springs apart and stuck pieces of radiator hose over the ends to keep them from rubbing and making noise. Not sure where you are at, but a good spring shop can re-arc your current springs for a nominal price and can add a leaf if you want. Don't know if there are any spring shops in your area, you would have to look. If you add leafs, add the same number to the front as well as the rear.

OP, not sure where you are in NC but, I've used this company for spring work in the past and have had very positive results.

Gary

Before you attempt to get the bolts loose hit them with some Kroil. It the bolts are really rusted hit them 2-3 time 4-6 hours apart. Kroil can be purchased directly from Kano Labs

I would have no issue doing it on a truck in my driveway. I did it to my Chevrolet dualie years ago. The issue with a motor home is the additional weight. It's not like you're going to take a floor jack and move things around easily. It will take a large bottle jack and will be a slow and tedious job. Getting the springs back into the mounts could prove difficult.

This is probably a job left to someone with heavy equipment.

If you know how to do springs you should be fine. Just use new U bolts. I'm more surprised that you said that nobody will call you back. It's as if people don't want your business or money. Crazy times.

Have never done it on a Ford product, Have done Dodge and some others.. It is not that hard of a job but getting the springs off can be a pain since the bolts are normally very rusted.. Last one I did was a trailer,, we had a ton of fun, Ate up a cut off wheel or two, but got 'er done.

Took the old broken spring to the spring shop, brought a renewed assembly back (Along with new shakles cause we damaged those too, not that they were not wore out already) and bolted it back in.. Two people, couple hours, Saved the poor guy a ton of cash.

Thankfully I have all the needed tools. And have done it before (4 times).

FIRE UP wrote:

10forty2 wrote:
Anybody undertaken the job themselves to replace leaf springs on their F53 chassis? Considering doing the job myself since I can't seem to get a truck shop to call me back. Is it a driveway job or am I looking at a death wish?

10fourty2,
Well Sir, you don't say WHY you're wanting to change them. I'm assuming it's because you're having issues with the present ones, i.e. "sagging" or, not carrying the load or ? I've done a few leaf spring replacements and, also done re-arcing myself. That's not a job for the faint at heart.

But, in any case, if you do take on this project, do take whatever precautions you need to make sure you really stabilize all the components. That is, you will be isolating the chassis/house, from the drive line/differential and while the differential is not nearly as heavy and awkward as the chassis/house, it's still heavy and, due to its design, can get away from you if, not supported correctly.

The springs do more than just support the coach. They're the LINK between those components mentioned. And, even the springs are heavy so, without a doubt, be cognoscente of all aspects of this job. There is a point of "no support vs hanging weight". That is, you need to try and find that spot at which, when you're jacking the coach up or, have supported the coach with all your jack stands/blocks, and are lowering the diff (or front axle if you're working on the front) and, there's no actual weight hanging on the spring connection points, other than the spring weight itself.

At that point, you can then support whichever axle you're working on really good and, then un-do the spring attachment points. That way, if you're replacing them, you'll not have to work that hard to re-align the attachment points with the new springs 'cause you're real close. Good luck.
Scott

Thanks Scott! I think I have all the tools and jacks/jack-stands necessary to do the job, but I'm not sure attempting it in my driveway is the best idea. I'm no stranger to turning wrenches, but I'm more concerned over the amount of tension that it will take to get the new spring back into place. I've been told it's a bear to make the connection on such a heavy spring.

To answer you first question, the front springs are sprung.....they've done what they were put on earth to do are are ready for eternal rest in a landfill or re-purposed as some form of artwork...LOL! The driver's side is sagging pretty badly, enough so that the coach leans to that side. The spring on that side is visibly sprung into a negative arch when at rest.

Any recommendation as to the best source to get new springs? The first website that comes up is SD Truck Springs.

Pay attention to what Scott has said. Ford says to replace the "U" bolts, not to re-use them due to being over-stressed.

10forty2 wrote:
Anybody undertaken the job themselves to replace leaf springs on their F53 chassis? Considering doing the job myself since I can't seem to get a truck shop to call me back. Is it a driveway job or am I looking at a death wish?

10fourty2,
Well Sir, you don't say WHY you're wanting to change them. I'm assuming it's because you're having issues with the present ones, i.e. "sagging" or, not carrying the load or ? I've done a few leaf spring replacements and, also done re-arcing myself. That's not a job for the faint at heart.

But, in any case, if you do take on this project, do take whatever precautions you need to make sure you really stabilize all the components. That is, you will be isolating the chassis/house, from the drive line/differential and while the differential is not nearly as heavy and awkward as the chassis/house, it's still heavy and, due to its design, can get away from you if, not supported correctly.

The springs do more than just support the coach. They're the LINK between those components mentioned. And, even the springs are heavy so, without a doubt, be cognoscente of all aspects of this job. There is a point of "no support vs hanging weight". That is, you need to try and find that spot at which, when you're jacking the coach up or, have supported the coach with all your jack stands/blocks, and are lowering the diff (or front axle if you're working on the front) and, there's no actual weight hanging on the spring connection points, other than the spring weight itself.

At that point, you can then support whichever axle you're working on really good and, then un-do the spring attachment points. That way, if you're replacing them, you'll not have to work that hard to re-align the attachment points with the new springs 'cause you're real close. Good luck.
Scott