LEVELING BLOCKS 35' CLASS A MOTORHOME

obgraham wrote:
As The idea of a 30,000 pound rig perched on jacks sitting on 4 plastic blocks or chunks of firewood does not appeal to me.

Others see things differently.

I admit I didn't read each post in depth but did someone advise using firewood?????

We chose to make our own leveling blocks from Horse Stall Mats! Cut them to 12x12….they work great.

What really works for me is 2"x 10" Doug Fir. I buy them at Lowes, and Lowes cuts them for free into 2' lengths. I also have a 35' Coach and two of these planks side by side completely covers your rear dual wheels. The most important thing is to have your tire completely under the plank to avoid inside tire casing damage. The 2x10 cover your wheels with no effort!

I use 1 ft long 2X4s with a screw eye in the end under each jack.
I can easily hook them with the awning rod …
When the blocks freeze to the ground it just takes one blow with a 16 oz. hammer to break them free.

As one of those castigated for suggesting "move", here's why: When I had a previous Class C, no jacks, I found the LegoBlox very fragile, and twice they disintegrated in front of me. Potentially dangerous.

So I think KLM has the only right idea -- build some proper support blocks, glued, screwed, and tattooed. The idea of a 30,000 pound rig perched on jacks sitting on 4 plastic blocks or chunks of firewood does not appeal to me.

Others see things differently.

I made 4 12" x12" x 2" jack pads, from 1" - cross grained, glued, screwed together for extra strength. Used a drawer pull, easy grab with awning rod. We also carry 4 planks - wide/long enough for entire tire. Do we need them often? No, but very glad to have them when needed. We use jack pads for winter camping, so jacks don't freeze to the ground. We have also been to a few cg's that require jack pads. Now, for the tires - rarely have needed them, but if you're stuck with unlevel site, sure beats tires off the ground!!!

I do not like to have the wheels off the ground when levelling, so we carry a few blocks, 4 pads for the jacks and 5 wood wedges so I can ensure that every wheel is on solid surface. Its over cautious but we stay in a lot of fair grounds with our group and they are usually not as level as camp ground sites.
Got lots of storage.
JM2CW

Wide wood planks under the levelers distribute the load. If you have to raise wheels off of the ground to get level, it is possible you are also extending your levelers themselves a bit too much, in that case, I put more wood under the jacks.

You will always hear that you should not let either of the rear drive tires leave the ground. That is because in most coaches, the parking break simply immobilizes the drive shaft. Since the rear differential is open, both tires need to be on the ground to keep the coach from moving.

Some people have stated that in a situation where they have to raise one of the rear tires off the ground, they will put wood planks under that tire to retain contact. I myself don't view a piece of wood as a very good surface to hold friction on soft ground if it should rain. For that reason, I carry a pair of HUGE wheel chocks. If I ever need to raise a rear wheel, I will chock the one that is still firmly on the ground with the chocks and the front wheel with 2x4s.

I pack two of them (10 in a pack). They are good also for supporting the sewer hose.

I also will move if not level. If I get down low enough to place blocks I will be there until a couple od people or a tow truck come to pick me up. I hook up using a walker and don't get down that low unless absolutely necessary. As of today it looks like the MH will be for sale. DW was diagnosed with liver cancer from her breast cancer 14 years ago.