We've had several class As with automatic leveling systems but now we have a class C and I'm considering what type of blocks to use. Our rig (27') came with a bunch of those stackable deals but I think I would prefer something simpler. I have a set of blocks that I've used for years at home with the class A. They are 3-high 2X12s. They work great and will raise a rig 5" but they are heavy. I like the looks of those single piece 3-level deals but the prices are all over the place. I also see those rocking things which look like they'd work. Also, I see that some people use pieces of horse mat (3/4"). Anyhow, just looking for a recommendation on what to get. Thanks.jor

I would just use some scrap 2x6 or 2x8 boards about 18" long and use those.. I was setup and a new neighbor was setting up behind us. I heard this crunching and breaking sounds. I looked over and he was using those "Lego" type of stacking blocks and they were just crunching due to the weight of his Class C.I had a couple of extra boards and offered him one. That's all he needed. I was leaving the morning, so I just said, keep it, as I'll be leaving in the morning, but no worries.. I got more at home. :)Anyway, I've been using the same set for almost 20 years and still working great.That's just what works for me. I don't need them for leveling that much, but use them for the stabilizer jacks (I have a TT) but when I do need them under the tires, they work great!Good luck! Mitch

I tried the Lego type blocks but found that they broke to easy and were a pain to setup when you don't get it right the first time and had to drive off,re-stack, and make them higher,to labor intensive.When I bought my RV,a Former Rental, it came with Tri Level Ramps They don't break and if they are good enough to withstand the use in that market they must be good,they still put them in their rentalsI have used them a lot in the last 11 years and have had no problems and they are easy to use and store. I have 6 just in case but never have used them all,4 is the most I have ever needed,most times just 2 if at all,they were for the rear duallys. I found that The Tri leveler work very well.

I think that 'rocking' leveler is for trailers. You need to support both dual wheels not just one on each side.I started to carry a double set of wood blocks 2x8's as a back up for my hydraulic levelers. However, since i installed two bubble levels inside my cab with a view of both from my drivers seat, I can usually make it level without using anything. Just park the rv on a known level spot, then install one level onto the dash offering R-L and the other level I mounted above the passenger seat offering Front-Rear leveling. Most of time I just need to move a couple of feet to make it level. Being on the 450 chassis makes it heavy enough to limit rocking when walking around inside. I hardly ever use the jacks for stability. I exercise the jacks periodically to make sure they still work.

I made my own out of pressure treated 2x6.Cut to length. Run one edge through a table saw so that it is reasonably square to the face. Use a speed square an make 2 or 3 lines across one board. Us the lines as guide and drill a 1/2" hole about half way across the board. Apply construction adhesive and 4" long screws to connect the two edge faces. Make sure the growth rings are going in opposite directions. By making your 2x12 this way, it is a lot less likely to crack !You can do the same with PT 2x4 but you will need 3 pieces. I have found that they might seem heavy at first, but leave them exposed to the weather and they will be a lot lighter the next year.

Agree with using wood instead of plastic blocks for leveling Class C. Used wood to level unit for the last 20 years.

Leveling Blocks | Good Sam Community

joraz
Explorer
Aug 30, 2022
drilled a bunch of holes down the center between the two screw lines.

I'm likin' this idea. Thanks.
jor
time2roll
Nomad
Aug 30, 2022
I would give what came with the RV a go. If/when they break get something else.
opnspaces
Navigator II
Aug 30, 2022
I have some that look like yours. After I built them I took them back apart and used a large hole saw from Harbor Freight and drilled a bunch of holes down the center between the two screw lines. I'm not sure if it matters but I made sure to stagger the holes between the levels. So far I've had no issues and it really lightened them up.
joraz
Explorer
Aug 30, 2022
OP here. Went with 2X8s. They weigh about 13# apiece and I've got a compartment they just fit into. Thanks to all.
jor

ramp
hotjag1
Explorer II
Aug 30, 2022
I use the 3 tier one piece levelers(like the ones pictured above) on the small rv in my signature. They are light weight and easy to handle, no worry of slivers, and the grab handle makes it easy to pick up from underneath.
VA-Apraisr
Explorer II
Aug 29, 2022
Got those 3-level one piece as shown above and love them. They stack together beneath my sofa and super easy and very strong. Otherwise, salt-treat wood can be used to create the same thing.
LMHS
Explorer II
Aug 28, 2022
I cracked a set of Lynx Leveler blocks on my old Class C. I used them on a soft sand site. They work great as long as they are well supported. I do think they have their place. I've used wood too. I recently bought a new set to use with the truck camper. They will work nicely to lift the ground end of the folding steps.
Bumpyroad
Explorer
Aug 27, 2022
whatever you use, be sure that they support the full width of the tire tread. the plastic stackables were not wide enough for my class A tires.
bumpy
joraz
Explorer
Aug 27, 2022
Thanks for the replies. Now I'm gravitating to wood although those 3-high plastic deals look pretty good. Anyhow, if I use 2x8 or even 2x6 those babies will be much lighter than my 2x12 monsters. Still thinking. Everybody have a great Saturday!
jor
WinMinnie02
Explorer
Aug 27, 2022
Agree with using wood instead of plastic blocks for leveling Class C. Used wood to level unit for the last 20 years.

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