Levelling Ramps Question

I’m also using pieces of plank (45 degree ends). I’m lucky, I can often drive into a site watching the level on the drink tray and find adequate level without any blocks. Of course there are times when I had 3 wheels too low - used the axe to lower the high one. And I’ve resorted to pieces of firewood for a wheel needing a higher lift.

I’ve seen people using a jack under the frame or axel to level in a difficult spot.

I got rid of the ramps I used to use for oil changes - only took one time driving right over a ramp. Now I use the plank pieces or some longer planks.

BFL13 wrote:
The 5er was no better for this than the Class C, being twisted and warped when it comes to "where is level?" inside. Perfection is when your egg stays in the middle of the frying pan on the stove.

Setting the level bubbles used for parking is a compromise at best.

Trying to get level with the ramps or whatever you have goes quicker in the cold and rain too.

At least you don't get stuck on your stilts with broken levellers like those Class A guys are every so often :(

I generally use the "Goodnuff" method of leveling in the cold and rain.

The 5er was no better for this than the Class C, being twisted and warped when it comes to "where is level?" inside. Perfection is when your egg stays in the middle of the frying pan on the stove.

Setting the level bubbles used for parking is a compromise at best.

Trying to get level with the ramps or whatever you have goes quicker in the cold and rain too.

At least you don't get stuck on your stilts with broken levellers like those Class A guys are every so often :(

I carry 4 or 5, 4x6, with one end beveled at about 30 degrees, and abut the same in 2x6, I don't bother to bevel the ends of the 2x.
These are all boards/timbers that I had around, never bought any just for the mh.
This has worked well for 30+ years.

Dusty

Water runoff control is a very good reason not to have a pad in a campground perfectly level, and as said probably one of the major reasons they get build slightly off level. Sometimes settling or frost can make things that were once level less level as time goes on, as well. For many loose surfaces like (some) gravel or dirt or crushed stone, just driving back and forth can make ruts and divots and so forth that cause some unevenness.

My class C isn't perfectly level inside when the wheels are perfectly level outside; the house tilts nose down compared to the ground a tiny bit. I think that's not at all unusual. For a perfectly level pad, I need one set of my 2x ramps under the front wheels to get the house level. (It's also somewhat unfortunately the case that not everything in the house is mutually level or plumb or square with the rest of the structure....)

I suspect a gimbaled bed would cost more than a couple hundred bucks extra, but then again I've never attempted to design or build one. Maybe a hammock arrangement would be the best way to go.

what were they thinking (probably water runoff?) when they constructed them?

How about those 2-way sites , that they don't advertise ? Dry as a bone when you set up then become waterfront sites during a rain event.
We set up everything up at an rv park and when woke up in the morning , we were in the middle of a huge puddle that totally surrounded the camper . I would have thought they would have charged more than $70 for a site on the water . :M

What amazes me most is the commercial campground spaces that you pay good money for. They're rarely level enough for us ... whether they be dirt spaces that look from a distance "to be level", or gravel spaces that look from a distance "to be level", or blacktop/concrete spaces that look from a distance "to be level". Our levels on the drivers side door and dash always show the true situation.

The most amazing are the blacktop/concrete spaces that are not level ... what were they thinking (probably water runoff?) when they constructed them?

We're not "level fanatics" - we just must have the permanent bed with it's head end a bit higher than the foot end for sleeping so blood doesn't pool in our heads! Walking around the coach during the day on a one-half-bubble to one-bubble off coach floor doesn't bother us or the refrigerator much.

The ultimate would be for RV builders to install the permanent bed(s) on a platform that can be leveled slightly independent of the level of the coach floor ... but I guess that would raise the price of the RV a couple hundred bucks that they couldn't tack on extra like they can with multi-thousand dollar whole-coach leveling systems.

Good info and tips, thanks. I didn't know about those Trilevel ramps.

I have a 24' Class C {E-350} and I've been using the same set of yellow Leggo blocks that I got at CW for five years. They are a little scuffed up from being pushed across asphalt a couple of times but not once have they shown any signs of breaking. Not sure how folks get them to break? :h

I've never had to go more than two blocks high and I always support both rear {dually} tires on the side that is being lifted. Only need a block or two on the front wheels about ten percent of the time. I have a level at the rear corner on the passenger side and a nother just around the corner on the rear so I can see both without having to move. Also have a small 4 way bubble level that resides on the dash.

It never takes more than a couple of minutes to get the coach level but then I've never taken more than 5 minutes at the dump station... just get out and git er done. It's just not that hard...

:B

I tried the Lego type blocks but found that they broke to easy and were a pain to setup when you don't get it right the first time and had to drive off,re-stack, and make them higher,to labor intensive.

When I bought my RV,a former Rental, it came with Tri Level Ramps They don't break and if they are good enough to withstand the use in that market they must be good.

I have used them a lot in the last 7 years and have had no problems and they are easy to use and store. I have 6 just incase but never have used them all,4 is the most I have ever needed,most times just 2 if at all,they were for the rear duallys.

I found that The Tri leveler work very well.



I also have a set like you describe but I would never take them with me,way to big and heavy,I use them to work on the RV and other vehicles that I own.