Looked at an older RV

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The stain by the AC wouldn't worry me. As others mentioned, check the wall and floor around the window that leaked for soft spots. If no soft spots, then I don't see a problem.

I agree to have them turn on the fridge before you arrive so you know it works on electric or propane - you can always fix it if one or the other doesn't work, but if both don't work you will need to replace more than likely.

If those check out, and either you or a mechanic check the engine, etc., then it's just a matter of floorplan and price. Is the floorplan really what you want and is the price acceptable. If either answer is no, then keep looking.

We have a GB Cruise Master it is a1996. The add says GB mfg made excellent rigs and believe me they did. In the summer of 1996 it was sold to Coachmen’ mfg. and then sold again I think don’t know to who. Our unit was one of the last true GB to be made. The add says this Landau was mfg in the 2000’s so not a GB. We still have our rig it will be 23 years old this April. It is a nice looking unit. Just be sure to do your research and find some one who knows RV’s to check it out.

The rear slide in the bedroom doesn't close flush at the bottom. Look at the exterior picture of the right rear quarter. (5th picture) The RV is well documented in the pics, a good sign. It's low miles, but IMO the price could be better due to age. Guessing that the dealer probably tacked about +-10g on to their acquisition price. Is this an "as is" purchase?

Chum lee

Chum lee wrote:
The rear slide in the bedroom doesn't close flush at the bottom. Look at the exterior picture of the right rear quarter. (5th picture) The RV is well documented in the pics, a good sign. It's low miles, but IMO the price could be better due to age. Guessing that the dealer probably tacked about +-10g on to their acquisition price. Is this an "as is" purchase?

Chum lee

The slides were open when we looked at it but I did as about that picture. Dealer said it was his wife's error when closing the slide, but if we get serious about this we would definitely have that slide checked. Not sure about their excuse on this. RV is sold as is.

The price is another thing. NADA Guides put this at around $19k. Like I said, we are new at this and I'm not sure how well NADA guides are but if that's a good guide to follow, then I wouldn't offer more. We have all summer to look around.

As others have mentioned, the water damage is worrisome. I called today and asked that they speak with the owner about it so I can get some more details. The walls, floor, ceiling, etc. are all solid and there are no smells. What I worry about is the window being sealed and it being a rubber roof. I have read about not buying anything with a rubber roof. Can someone elaborate??? Again...we are green.

To answer other's questions, my DH is handy and we are prepared both mentally and financially to do some work. This is why we are looking at an older RV. We usually do all of our own work on our home, camper, and some on our vehicles.

If we were to decide to move forward, we certainly would have everything turned on, fridge, air and we would have a mechanic check it out. We are not in a hurry and would check over everything in great detail :) I love hearing other people's opinions though, it certainly does help.


"Executive" yes, a little technically challenged and thank you, I'm learning that too. :B

Countless numbers of RV's on the road with rubber, tpo, etc - soft material roofs, with absolutely no issues. Some folks will tell you it absolutely has to be fiberglass and I say BS. Fiberglass roofs have their share of issues as well. The roof material would not be a deal breaker unless there was a specific issue about that particular roof (like the winnies with fiberglass seams and the roofs pulling off from lack of maintenance)

So no, the type of roof would not be an issue for me. The condition of the roof is. And I don't care what kind of roof you have, failure points are very seldom the material itself and more about all the holes in them from various things, like AC, vents, cap seams etc. And all roofs, no matter the material, have that.

way2roll wrote:
Countless numbers of RV's on the road with rubber, tpo, etc - soft material roofs, with absolutely no issues. Some folks will tell you it absolutely has to be fiberglass and I say BS. Fiberglass roofs have their share of issues as well. The roof material would not be a deal breaker unless there was a specific issue about that particular roof (like the winnies with fiberglass seams and the roofs pulling off from lack of maintenance)

So no, the type of roof would not be an issue for me. The condition of the roof is. And I don't care what kind of roof you have, failure points are very seldom the material itself and more about all the holes in them from various things, like AC, vents, cap seams etc. And all roofs, no matter the material, have that.

Thanks...that helps :)

Water leaks, if caught & fixed are not the "horror" that many make them out to be. If you listen to some posters, ANY evidence of water means that the rig should immediately be totaled and dumped in a wrecking yard for parts. I disagree. EVERY rig will leak, somewhere, at some point. In fact, you will likely have a number of leaks, in various locations, over the life of the RV. As long as you catch them and seal them, it is no time to panic.

The rig looks very nice for it's age, and while it is priced high, it is not outlandishly high if everything checks out, IMO. Downside is if it is a consignment, there may not be much wiggle room on the price.

The slideout issue could easily be just that it wasn't fully brought in prior to the pic being taken (in other words, they could have stopped as soon as the top made contact); On my 2004, I must hold the slideout switch for 3-5 seconds after it is in/out to fully set the slide.

Looks like a nice rv to me. I agree about checking the frig as they are very expensive to replace. Our slide does settle/pull in at the bottom last so you do need to hold the button down a second or two after you think it's in. I think someone just didn't hold the button long enough. AC units do occasionally have to have the screws finger tightened inside access to keep the seal compressed to avoid leaks - that could be what the water mark is from. I'd go for this , but try to negotiate a little better price.