Forum Discussion
1,941 Replies
- ParrotguyExplorerPat, What does the sensor you mention look like? Do you remove the shield to get at it?
Gary - FreshAirExplorerJim, I have an 05 PA 36B. I had the persistent problem of flame out and restarts with mine. With door open it worked fine. I adjusted inside vent covers, shields and everything else I could think of and was considering modifying the door vents. I would sit in front of it with a Brew and stare at it as I didn't know what else to do? The last time while staring at it I reached in with a screwdriver and repostioned, pushed, the sensor into the flame a tiny bit. I think I also scraped and cleaned the sensor tip with the screwdriver at the same time. At that time, it was the only thing I did and I have not had any problem with it since, more than a year. ??
I would not modify your door. My .02 worth. Hope your as lucky.
Pat - Jim_BakkerExplorer
FreshAir wrote:
What fixed my on going problem was moving the heat sensor to what I thought was a more direct inline position with the flame. It looked OK but I moved it anyway as I had tried most everything I could think of. Dealer was of no help. Good luck to you.
Pat
Has anyone modified the door so more air gets inside? Whenever I've had this problem opening the door solved the problem. Once the flame was established I could close the door without further problem. - FreshAirExplorerWhat fixed my on going problem was moving the heat sensor to what I thought was a more direct inline position with the flame. It looked OK but I moved it anyway as I had tried most everything I could think of. Dealer was of no help. Good luck to you.
Pat - FreshAirExplorer
Parrotguy wrote:
Water Heater won't stay on
I wrote Atwood the following concerning my water heater
I have an Atwood 10 gallon water heater model GC10 spark ignition, Literature number 93755 which was OEM in my 2005 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 36D. I have had problems for years where the unit shuts itself down and has to keep re-starting over and over again. It stays on for about 5-15 seconds and then shuts down and re-starts. I read in Motorhome magazine that these models shut down due to an overly sensitive thermal cut off and so I replaced that part. It helped for a while but now it has gotten worse. Can you recommend a solution?
Here's Chantels reply
Thank you for visiting the Atwood website. I would recommend that you change the spark probe. I don't think it has anything to do with your thermal cut off.
Just a Thought, based on experience. Open your hot water heater door and leave it open and see if it still shuts off as before. If it works better you may have an air flow/exhaust problen or flame sensing problem. Try it and let us know. If you haven't already done that it's worth a try.
Pat
I thinks she's wrong, as opening the door reduces the problem (heat). Anyone solve this problem?
Gary - ParrotguyExplorerWater Heater won't stay on
I wrote Atwood the following concerning my water heater
I have an Atwood 10 gallon water heater model GC10 spark ignition, Literature number 93755 which was OEM in my 2005 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 36D. I have had problems for years where the unit shuts itself down and has to keep re-starting over and over again. It stays on for about 5-15 seconds and then shuts down and re-starts. I read in Motorhome magazine that these models shut down due to an overly sensitive thermal cut off and so I replaced that part. It helped for a while but now it has gotten worse. Can you recommend a solution?
Here's Chantels reply
Thank you for visiting the Atwood website. I would recommend that you change the spark probe. I don't think it has anything to do with your thermal cut off.
I thinks she's wrong, as opening the door reduces the problem (heat). Anyone solve this problem?
Gary - bricotExplorer
Fyr guy wrote:
On the 37C we have 2 arms to control the living room slide. The bolts attach the square tubular metal bar to the motor mounted in the middle and turns to push in/out the slide. In visiting the powergearus.com site, it no longer has schematics to show the part number.
Exactly the metal drive bar bolts to the connector on the gear mechanism, which has a cotter pin release in case you need to manually pull the slide in. I've got the local place looking for part numbers and to see if the bars are universal between my two larger slides. Each side of the drive bar has an inner and outer piece that slide in/out to create the correct length. - Fyr_guyExplorerOn the 37C we have 2 arms to control the living room slide. The bolts attach the square tubular metal bar to the motor mounted in the middle and turns to push in/out the slide. In visiting the powergearus.com site, it no longer has schematics to show the part number.
- ParrotguyExplorerSlide out cotter pin/bolt failure
I went out and looked at my slide out mechanism and now I'm thinking my unit is different from those of you who had this problem.
My 36D, with the 23 foot slide, has two power beams, one near each end, with gear teeth on one side. Not at all like the descriptions I read relating to the failed bolt/ cotter pin issue.
Is it correct to assume you guys were talking about the 12' slide which has just one power beam, and not the 36D full wall slide?
Gary - ParrotguyExplorerCotter Pin/ bolt problem on slideout.
You guys spooked me when I read about this issue so I want to order some spare parts in case it happens to me.
Do I order the bolts and the cotter pins?
Anyone note the part numbers?
On the Power Gear site what product do I navigate to?
Thanks for you help!
Gary
About Motorhome Group
38,768 PostsLatest Activity: Nov 21, 2015