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babymichael20's avatar
May 19, 2015

Looking to purchase a used Class C

Greetings-I'm new to this site. My husband and I are empty nesters in our mid 50's in Maryland. We are looking to purchase a used Class C motorhome to travel around the united states together. I'm looking for something great for travel as opposed to camping. We know we want the queen bed in the rear of the coach. Mostly it will be just the 2 of us and maybe a 3 year old on occasion. I'm sure my sons will borrow the rig for their own travel etc... Any suggestions? Make-model-must haves etc, things to avoid? Looking to keep the cost under 35K. Looking to the experts for any info. Thanks
  • New, used, or well used, when shopping for any conventional class-C, the most important consideration is how it is constructed. This post outlines construction methods which are most affordable and methods that cost more, but are built to hold up much better to the elements and the punishment of road motion.

    Some motor home manufactures offer different levels of quality through their various model lines. Instead of providing a list of brands to consider, it is best to identify what "Better" is.

    When shopping for a motor home, don't get distracted with what I call "Eye Candy" or "Square Footage". You want to pay close attention to how the house is constructed. Water infiltration is the number one killer of motor homes, rotting them away long before anything is worn out. Once water gets inside, it is like termites. By the time you realize there is a problem, a lot of damage has already occurred. Also consider that mold & mildew can grow inside the walls which then you have a health hazard. My advise focuses on identifying a reliably well sealed motor home.

    #1 BEST (Very Expensive, Can Be 1.75 to 2 times the cost of Second Best)
    NO structural seam work. The brand Coach House is a fine example. It is seamless, made from a mold. The only places where water can leak is cutouts for windows, entry door, roof-top vents & a/c unit, storage compartments & maintenance access, all of which are in areas of very low stress. Because they have a seamless shell, these motor homes have a limited selection of sizes.

    #2 SECOND BEST
    Common, Affordable, & comes in Many Sizes so this is my main focus
    I own an example of this type. My Rig Here manufactured by Phoenix USA.
    Made in sections, but assembled in a way that greatly reduces the threat of water damage. Here are the good things you want to look for.

    a) Structural Seams Away From Corners
    When a motor home is driven, the house bounces, resonates, shakes, and leans, many thousands of times, representing a series of extended continuous earthquakes. Corner seams see greater stresses than seams located elsewhere. Corner seams are more easily split, especially when the caulk gets brittle with age & exposure to the sun. One extremely bad bump in the road can instantly breach a corner seam. Seams hold up much better when they are brought in from the corners in lower stressed areas.

    b) A Seamless Over-The-Van Front Cap
    A huge bed above the van’s roof is the most vulnerable area of a motor home. No matter how well they are made, that long frontal over-hang resonates when the RV is driven. It is common for seams to split there, most troublesome with age & exposure to the elements. HERE is a more recent example, one of many I have read. The small front aerodynamic cap of a B+ design HERE eliminates the overhang which eliminates most of the resonation, along with most seam work.

    There are a few conventional “C” Designs (big over-van bed) where that area is seamless. If you absolutely must have that huge bed, then look for a seamless bucket-like design. Born Free offers a seamless bucket design as seen in This Model. The Itasca Navion Here is another fine example. Some manufactures as of late offer a partial bucket design with fewer seams located in less-stressed areas. Some manufacture models like the Minnie Winnie Premier and the Nexus Phantom utilize a compromising partial bucket design, making it a better choice compared to a fully seamed cab-over bed.

    If you plan to accommodate more than 2 people, having that large extra cab-over bed will be extremely useful.

    c) A Crowned Roof
    Rain and snow melt runs off a crowned roof. A flat roof will sag over time, then water puddles around heavy roof-top items like the a/c unit. Water eventually finds it's way inside after gaskets & caulk have degraded from age, sun, and change in seasons.

    d) Rolled-Over-The-Edge seamless Fiberglass Roof Sheathing
    A single sheet of fiberglass as shown HERE that rolls over the right & left sides of the roof, down to the wall. The overlapping of fiberglass to the wall provides a good water seal and the fiberglass sheathing holds up better than roofs made of sheet rubber or thin plastic called TPO, which require more attention to keep your RV well protected.

    e) A Five Sided Rear Wall Cap
    A five sided back wall moves the seams around to the sides to areas of much less stress as seen HERE. The rear wall resembles a shallow cooking pan standing on it's side. Like the example, some rear wall sections are constructed with an integrated spare tire compartment and rear storage compartment. Not only are they convenience features, but that rear wall/cap offers a solid double-wall for exceptional strength which is more resistant to flexing the adjoining seam work.

    Potentially Troublesome Construction
    Entry level motor homes are made with seams in corners and finished off with trim, including the massive cab-over bed. Their roof is flat and finished with rubber or TPO. They are most affordable, and come in all sizes. HERE is one such example. If considering this construction type, keep in-mind they require more regular care with bi-annual inspections. Plan to use a caulking gun now and then. When buying a used one, consider that you really don't know how well the previous owner maintained it. Buying new or used, that construction method will be counting on you to be a good non-neglectful owner.

    There are also rare exception like the Lazy Daze which has seam work in the corners, but the substructure and sealing method is of the highest quality that it holds up like a seamless body. It's excellent sectional construction methods are not commonly found in other brands. I am no expert on this, but I'd give it a #1.5 Almost Like Best

    About The Chassis
    The most popular is the Ford E-Series with the V10 engine. The Sprinter diesel is a popular alternative to the E350 in the smaller sizes. The GM chassis is not popular, but is a very good choice for the right application. Any of those three brands since 1998 are real good, new or used. If you plan to tow a car or heavy trailer, be aware that the Sprinter is the least powered chassis. People who tow with a Sprinter, take it slower.

    If considering a recent “small” class B+/C motor home, here is a comparison between the two main contenders, the Sprinter with the V6 diesel engine and the Ford E350 with the V10 gasoline engine.

    Advantages Of The Sprinter With Diesel Engine
    - Offers a 35% improvement in fuel economy over the Ford-V10, when both are loaded and driven identically.
    - More ergonomic driver compartment with more leg room.
    - Comfort continues with a car-like feel & quiet ride.
    - A grander view out the windshield
    - Made by Mercedes which people are attracted to.

    Advantages Of The Ford E350 with V10 Engine
    - Given identical motor homes both brand and model, the Ford is around $13,000 MSRP cheaper
    - The Ford V10 engine has 50% more horse power and torque
    - The Ford E350 chassis handles 1430 pounds more weight.
    - The E350 is able to tow a heavier load.
    - The E350 rear axle is significantly wider which translates to better stability.
    - In most places traveled, gasoline costs less than diesel fuel
    - The Sprinter diesel has limited mechanical service shops around North America
    - The Sprinter diesel is typically outfitted with a propane generator. Propane is a critical fuel for RV operations, and generally needs to be rationed when dry camping.
    - This Next Point Is Debatable But Still Worth Noting....The V6 Sprinter diesel engine is not allowed to idle for extended periods. This limitation is detrimental when you need a/c but there are generator restrictions or you are dangerously low on propane, or you have a mechanical failure with the generator or roof a/c. The Ford V10 can safely idle for hours on end, heating, cooling, and battery charging, all valuable if you have a baby, pets, or health/respiratory issues.

    You decide what your priorities are, and pick the appropriate chassis. There are some really sweet motor homes being built exclusively on the Sprinter chassis, such as the Winnebago Via, View and View Profile. Others like Phoenix USA build their model 2350 and 2400 on both the Sprinter and Ford E350. They will even build it on the heaviest duty E450 upon request for a nominal fee. People who request an E450 for a small motor home, tow heavier things like for example, a multi-horse trailer. You can even special order a E350 & E450 4x4.

    There is so much cool stuff offered in recent years, and even more anticipated with the upcoming Ford T-Series chassis. The general public awaits the RV industry to utilize a made-for-RV-application model when or if it becomes available. The chassis is similar to a Sprinter in capability and fuel economy, but hopeful to be much more affordable and easier to get serviced.

    The Chevy 3500/4500 Chassis
    I do not understand why this chassis is not more popular. It offers more interior comfort than the Ford, but not as much as the Sprinter. It's power & weight ratings are a little less than their Ford counter-parts making them a great chassis for all but the heaviest of class Cs. They are also a little better on fuel consumption. One thing to keep in-mind, if you are counting inches to store your rig, the Chevy adds an additional 6" to the front bumper compared to the Ford. I learned that researching rigs that could fit in my 25'-0" deep garage. By default, the Ford gave me 6" more to work with. If you examine my motor home in my garage HERE, you will see our Ford E350 is quite tight already. That could be some of the reason why the Chevy offers a little more interior driver/passenger space.

    The Dodge Promaster 3500 Cut-Away Chassis
    THIS front wheel drive chassis is a brand new entry in the RV industry. I am concerned over it's lack of load capability as reflected with single free-wheeling rear wheels. I have been reading posts written by new Promaster RV owners stating they are over-weight with just two people, some personal effects and food. They say they can't carry water and never a 3rd person. I would not be comfortable with such a limited load range.

    Engine Power Ratings of Ford, Sprinter, & Chevy
    Ford - 6.8L-V10, 305hp, 420ft
    Sprinter Diesel - 3.0L-V6, 188hp, 325ft
    Chevy - 6.0L-V8, 323hp, 373ft
    Dodge Promaster - 3.6L-V6 (GVW only 9,300 pounds)
  • Towing a small car appeals to RV'ers that like to set up camp and drive into town and sight see or who travel in social RV groups. I have never towed and have never felt the need for it. Rigs that are 27 feetlong are fairly quick to unhook for a run into town, etc. and are easy enough to park near restaurants and attractions. You can rent a car when needed to tour RV-unfriendly cities, etc. Try RV'ing without towing for a while and decide later.
  • I agree with most of the above. I don't think there is a set length you need to stay with - that will be up to your personal needs and wants. You can find a queen bed with many in the 24ft range and above. Look at floorplans carefully - make sure the layout makes sense to you and feels right in action (play act a day in the life in them).

    Storage is always an issue, learn how to KISS and you'll be OK. Keep It Simple Stupid. Doing some shorter trips will help determine what you need and what you don't.

    Also, since you'll be buying used, the shorter trips can help work out the bugs - better to have a problem 100 miles from home versus 1000 miles from home.
  • Keep an eye on the wheelbase on the rear queen models, the longer the wheelbase the better the handling from what I understand. We have a 31 footer with the walk-around queen in the back and have never experienced handling issues with our 220 inch wheelbase. In the shorter floorplans with the walk-around beds they often have a shorter wheelbase, which might translate to tougher handling.

    Edited to add: Found info on other threads: under 50% ratio of total length to wheelbase is problematic, 50-54% can be OK, and over 54% is ideal.
  • babymichael20 wrote:
    Any suggestions? Make-model-must haves etc, things to avoid? Looking to keep the cost under 35K. Looking to the experts for any info. Thanks


    $35K and under means used. And that'll mean maintenance. This in itself isn't a deal-breaker, just start doing your homework and learning. We just bought a 2008, and it was well cared for. But still, the inside needed work, we need tires, an alignment, etc.


    Advice - schedule *several* short trips to start. One night stay, then a couple. Get to know the RV. Learn how to pack, what you need, what you don't.

    Ours came with an oven, which we use. Others just a stovetop and microwave.
  • IMHO, the floor plan is critical to your enjoyment. Go to some RV shows if you can and look at all the floor plan options. The bigger the rig, the more storage you will have, but I don't think anyone ever has enough storage room.

    Our rig is only 24 feet and suits the 2 of us just fine, with occasional trips with kids and grandkids. We can sleep a total of 4 adults and 2 children OK. I have a cargo carrier and a bike rack out back, and now we have a toad.
  • You will want at least a 27 foot bumper to bumper rig. If you buy used, try to find one 3-4 years old with everything working, no evidence of water leaks and new OEM tires by date codes. Have brake fluid flushed and brake system serviced as needed. Get independent estimates for any repairs needed or upgrades wanted. Slides are nice but some interfere with access to things when retracted and they can have water leaks and mechanical problems. The fridge, roof A/C unit, fresh water pump, converter charger and house batteries on our rig needed replacement at about 10 years old. Yours may last longer or not. If you buy new, check the dealer's reputation for quick and professional after sale warranty fixes. You can dicker for substantial price cuts on new rigs especially if you can buy for cash. Spend time in rigs and pretend eating, sleeping, making the bed, using the restroom and galley, watching TV, etc. Don't buy on impulse and find a floor plan and features that best suits your needs/desires. Don't buy an extended mechanical warranty policy, save money in a pearl harbor bank account instead. Don't buy a really old rig that with carbureted engine, inadequate engine cooling system and history of poor DIY repairs, and tires that look new but are ready to blow. If you have RV body repair, electrical, truck mechanic, air conditioning, plumbing and gas appliance repair skills, and time, work space, and available help you might save about 1/2 the cost of getting an old rig ready for cross country touring in safety and comfort. Old rigs sell for around $5000K regardless of how much money you put into them in repairs and upgrades.
  • No expert here, but be aware an RV queen is 60”x75”. Outside storage becomes greater when you get in the 28’ length range. If Ford based, look for one with “tow/haul” transmission. My 2010 E350 chassis has that.