Lost My Running Lights

Here is where I found why my running lights weren't working.


They run the wires under your coach and zip strip them to the frame member. And the exposed wires are tied real tight against the metal angle. :R They run them from side to side right by where the rear tires are.

Check that first, on mine the wires were rubbed in half by the metal frame!! In other places the rubber wire coating rubbed off exposed wires up against the frame. :(

Hi Mike! Been a while.
Thanks for the tip.
It sounds plausible when you say it.
C-dad

Aw, gee... Nice to hear from you again too. Write me a PM and I will write back too.

j-d yes.

Looks like that. Although I haven't had them all out I've noticed subtle differences.

thanks for the post.
I have my work cut out for me but at least I have a better plan now.

(thanks Ron- it all helps)

C-dad

Artum Snowbird wrote:
Normally, when your blinkers are fast, one bulb is not working. I would carefully inspect both front and back bulb sets with the red lens covers off. Blinker filaments are the large filament in a double filament bulb.

I suspect what has happened is the ground in the blinker that is not working properly has failed. Your running light circuit is also in that bulb. The power to the running lights comes to that bulb, but cannot get to ground, so it goes in the running light filament, can't get out on the ground circuit, so it goes back out on the brake/turn filament, goes over to another bulb and finds a ground.

Because the brake/turn filaments are so much thicker, they have less resistance. The voltage is now in series instead of parallel through the resistances.

Fix that ground at that bulb and you will find your running lights will work.

Hi Mike! Been a while.
Thanks for the tip.
It sounds plausible when you say it.
C-dad

When multiple lights stop working. I start by checking ground wires. Bad grounds cause fuses to blow.

Normally, when your blinkers are fast, one bulb is not working. I would carefully inspect both front and back bulb sets with the red lens covers off. Blinker filaments are the large filament in a double filament bulb.

I suspect what has happened is the ground in the blinker that is not working properly has failed. Your running light circuit is also in that bulb. The power to the running lights comes to that bulb, but cannot get to ground, so it goes in the running light filament, can't get out on the ground circuit, so it goes back out on the brake/turn filament, goes over to another bulb and finds a ground.

Because the brake/turn filaments are so much thicker, they have less resistance. The voltage is now in series instead of parallel through the resistances.

Fix that ground at that bulb and you will find your running lights will work.

To test my little theory, take the bulb out of the socket and connect from the side of the bulb socket to a good ground. If this makes your running lights work properly on the coach, there is your problem spot.

Does the relay look like this:

If so, here's the wiring
Power Source is #30. You need a testing power supply lead, ideally with a little breaker (say 10-amp) or fuse in it, to power #30. Once you do that, IF your relay has #87A (some don't), your test light will illuminate.
If you apply +12VDC and Ground to #85 and #86 (doesn't matter which) then your test light on #87A will go out, but it will illuminate on #87.
The relays are available everywhere! Radio Shack if you can find a store anymore. Auto Supply if you can get somebody who knows what they're doing without trying to find Year, Make, Model and Engine in a computer without knowing what's on the shelf or what it does. Amazon has bunches of them, often with new sockets.
The BOSCH brand for these was sold to TYCO, so those two actual suppliers sold/sell the best "Bosch" relays. But when you can get 5 of 'em for $15 with sockets delivered to your door (Amazon), you can have spares. It's an RV after all, not a Moon Shot.