lug nut torque

I bought a 1/2 inch drive electric impact wrench for $58 off eBay, beats a length of pipe. Fire up the generator and change out the tire. I also carry a mounted spare as many others do.

I also carry the 3/4 breaker bar, socket, and pipe extension. I also carry a 12" socket extension and a small adjustable support jack stand. By adjusting the support jack stand and setting my socket extension and breaker bar on top of it, I am able to use the pipe extension by standing on it to get the extra leverage needed. I use a 1/2" to 3/4" torque multiplier, along with my 1/2" torque wrench, when tightening the lugs to the required Workhorse 475 ft.lbs.
Actually getting the lugs loose is a piece of cake and using the pipe under the tire it makes it pretty easy to position the tire on the lugs when reinstalling the wheel.

ronfisherman wrote:
Here is a Ford Spec Sheet for Lug Nut Torque

The link supplied appears to come from the 2001 chassis manual. When we had our 2001 Adventurer (on the Ford F53 chassis) we got a certified letter from Ford raising the torque value from 145 ft. lbs. to 160 ft. lbs.

I would be surprised if the torque has been lowered back to the original specification.

You never know when you might need the torque specs. I needed mine week before last. My 19.5's troque to 450 lbs. I had a blow-out in far west Texas. I have roadside assistance but knew it would take them at least 2 or 3 hours to even get to me so I changed it myself. Of course it had to be the inside dually. I was up and running back on the road before the assistance could have even gotten there. I carry a six foot cheater pipe with me so breaking them and retightening them was a piece of cake.

dcbrewer wrote:

darsben wrote:

Tom/Barb wrote:

WyoTraveler wrote:
Bet those wrenches are pricey.

Snapon 1.25" socket was 36 bucks, the 3/4" breaker bar was $60 6 foot cheater pipe to pull 550Foot Pounds was priceless.

You are wrong about the cheater pipe being priceless. I think the self sufficiency is the priceless part.

I carry the same stuff, plus a mounted spare, 22.5. Hope I never need it. Not to forget the 20 ton bottle jack.

X2 on the self sufficiency. I used my similar cheap combination with 6 foot cheater pipe to remove/reinstall both front wheels on my rig today...pulled the drums and lubed the air brake S cam rollers to stop the "clunk". Cost about a nickel's worth of grease and a lot of labor.

Fred

darsben wrote:

Tom/Barb wrote:

WyoTraveler wrote:
Bet those wrenches are pricey.

Snapon 1.25" socket was 36 bucks, the 3/4" breaker bar was $60 6 foot cheater pipe to pull 550Foot Pounds was priceless.

You are wrong about the cheater pipe being priceless. I think the self sufficiency is the priceless part.

I carry the same stuff, plus a mounted spare, 22.5. Hope I never need it. Not to forget the 20 ton bottle jack.

Tom/Barb wrote:

WyoTraveler wrote:
Bet those wrenches are pricey.

Snapon 1.25" socket was 36 bucks, the 3/4" breaker bar was $60 6 foot cheater pipe to pull 550Foot Pounds was priceless.

You are wrong about the cheater pipe being priceless. I think the self sufficiency is the priceless part.

WyoTraveler wrote:
Bet those wrenches are pricey.

Snapon 1.25" socket was 36 bucks, the 3/4" breaker bar was $60 6 foot cheater pipe to pull 550Foot Pounds was priceless.

sfo1969 wrote:

fischer wrote:
I read or was told the end of the bolt has the torque

? Why did you need that info on a new MH ?

just because i want to know.some day i might need that info.

I have worked on tractors and heavy farm equipment and I don't even have a socket in my tool box large enough for my MH lug nuts. Haven't seen a lug wrench in any stores recently that would fit. Bet those wrenches are pricey.

ronfisherman wrote:
Here is a Ford Spec Sheet for Lug Nut Torque

thanks ronfisherman this is what i was looking for.