Torque on Lug Nuts

RedRollingRoadblock wrote:

Chum lee wrote:

Oh, . . . come on. Please stop it. I'm not saying that owning something like a Dewalt/PorterCable 6 gallon 120 volt pancake compressor (no affiliation) is the most efficient, production line industrial/commercial way to live your life. THAT'S NOT WHAT I'M/WE'RE TALKING ABOUT HERE. Granted, when using a pancake style compressor, you may have to pause briefly to recharge the tank (to 165 psi) after breaking a few oyer-torqued lug bolts/nuts (maybe 650 ft-lbs in this case) but it WILL get them off so that you can, . . . git-er-done in an emergency situation rather than sitting dead in the water. (waiting for some (IMO) overpriced "expert" like you to show up)

Chum lee

I am sorry that you seem think that I infringe on your self-anointed "Expert Status."

You absolutely don't. (infringe on anything I do) You are free to be the biggest rolling a-hole you want. I won't hire you, I'm not impressed by you, I won't recommend you, nor am I intimidated by you. I call 'em like I see 'em. So, . . . have you ever taken a 3/4" drive pneumatic impact gun hooked up to a 6 gallon pancake style compressor and tried to remove some lug nuts/bolts @ 650 ft-lbs of torque? That's a rhetorical question. (which you needn't answer) I already know the answer.

Chum lee

Chum lee wrote:

Oh, . . . come on. Please stop it. I'm not saying that owning something like a Dewalt/PorterCable 6 gallon 120 volt pancake compressor (no affiliation) is the most efficient, production line industrial/commercial way to live your life. THAT'S NOT WHAT I'M/WE'RE TALKING ABOUT HERE. Granted, when using a pancake style compressor, you may have to pause briefly to recharge the tank (to 165 psi) after breaking a few oyer-torqued lug bolts/nuts (maybe 650 ft-lbs in this case) but it WILL get them off so that you can, . . . git-er-done in an emergency situation rather than sitting dead in the water. (waiting for some (IMO) overpriced "expert" like you to show up)

Chum lee

I am sorry that you seem think that I infringe on your self-anointed "Expert Status."

GREGORYJ wrote:
A torque multiplier works well to remove 22.5" wheel lug nuts with the 450lb. torgue specs, but you should use a torque wench when installing them as you can't install them accuracy to 450lb with the multiplier.

I think a lot depends on the multiplier. My trucks with hub-piloted wheels I carried a old Blue Point 4-1 and Harbor Freight half inch torque wrench. Would set the wrench to click at 120. Extension and friction in the multiplier would be closer than the torque sticks used at the tire shop.

A torque multiplier works well to remove 22.5" wheel lug nuts with the 450lb. torgue specs, but you should use a torque wench when installing them as you can't install them accuracy to 450lb with the multiplier.

If you want a simple torque multiplier kit that easily removes my 450# lug nuts, look at Amazon. The kit I have was under $100, has one inch drive with several sockets and packs up in a small case. It has a hand crank that turns 58 to1 ratio. The unit is rated up to about 3500 ft lbs of torque. You do need to use a normal rated torque wrench to tighten the nuts.

Chum lee wrote:

Oh, . . . come on. Please stop it. I'm not saying that owning something like a Dewalt/PorterCable 6 gallon 120 volt pancake compressor (no affiliation) is the most efficient, production line industrial/commercial way to live your life. THAT'S NOT WHAT I'M/WE'RE TALKING ABOUT HERE. Granted, when using a pancake style compressor, you may have to pause briefly to recharge the tank (to 165 psi) after breaking a few oyer-torqued lug bolts/nuts (maybe 650 ft-lbs in this case) but it WILL get them off so that you can, . . . git-er-done in an emergency situation rather than sitting dead in the water. (waiting for some (IMO) overpriced "expert" like you to show up)

Chum lee

To start, when I was working, as soon as I got a truck with Budd wheels to remove a wheel I went with inch drive, long anvil impact.
A big electric, or air gun with a small compressor might help if you need to get nuts off. But when the topic is re-torqueing lugnuts I would think the idea would be to get the torque right, not "quarter turn past as far as it will go with a 6 foot cheater"

RedRollingRoadblock wrote:

Chum lee wrote:

Bruce Brown wrote:

Chum lee wrote:
Whenever anyone (well, . . . besides myself) touches the wheels, tires, suspension components, etc., on ANY vehicle I own, drive, etc.,
I ALWAYS check/retorque at least a few of the lug nuts/bolts before I leave visual range of the shop that just worked on it. I don't enjoy getting stuck with a flat tire, at night, while it's raining/pouring in the middle of nowhere with a lug nut/bolt that was torqued to 450 ft-lbs and now I CAN'T GET IT OFF with the tools I have. The factory spec on the MH is 150 ft-lbs.

Chum lee

Factory specs on ours is 450#. My biggest torque wrench only goes to 300#. Might be time,for a torque multiplier.

Wow! 450 ft-lbs. That's a lot. (well beyond the capability of mortal men) A torque multiplier is a good idea. If I was driving your vehicle (no, I'm not giving advice here) I would consider investing in a 120 volt pancake style compressor and a 3/4" drive heavy duty pneumatic impact gun like they use in the long haul truck stops.

Chum lee

A pancake compressor wouldn't last for one lug bolt, if that.

Oh, . . . come on. Please stop it. I'm not saying that owning something like a Dewalt/PorterCable 6 gallon 120 volt pancake compressor (no affiliation) is the most efficient, production line industrial/commercial way to live your life. THAT'S NOT WHAT I'M/WE'RE TALKING ABOUT HERE. Granted, when using a pancake style compressor, you may have to pause briefly to recharge the tank (to 165 psi) after breaking a few oyer-torqued lug bolts/nuts (maybe 650 ft-lbs in this case) but it WILL get them off so that you can, . . . git-er-done in an emergency situation rather than sitting dead in the water. (waiting for some (IMO) predatory overpriced "expert" like you to show up)

Chum lee

Millions of miles on trucks. I always checked the lugs where at right torque every 50 miles or so until they stop moving. Then I put a dot of nail polish where each nut meets wheel. I can tell by looking if any move.
Works good on trailers or any other bolt you worry about.

From Harbor Freight
Bauer electric extreme impact gun...1050 #’s
Incredible amount of torque, it’s what I carry. $99

Chum lee wrote:

Bruce Brown wrote:

Chum lee wrote:
Whenever anyone (well, . . . besides myself) touches the wheels, tires, suspension components, etc., on ANY vehicle I own, drive, etc.,
I ALWAYS check/retorque at least a few of the lug nuts/bolts before I leave visual range of the shop that just worked on it. I don't enjoy getting stuck with a flat tire, at night, while it's raining/pouring in the middle of nowhere with a lug nut/bolt that was torqued to 450 ft-lbs and now I CAN'T GET IT OFF with the tools I have. The factory spec on the MH is 150 ft-lbs.

Chum lee

Factory specs on ours is 450#. My biggest torque wrench only goes to 300#. Might be time,for a torque multiplier.

Wow! 450 ft-lbs. That's a lot. (well beyond the capability of mortal men) A torque multiplier is a good idea. If I was driving your vehicle (no, I'm not giving advice here) I would consider investing in a 120 volt pancake style compressor and a 3/4" drive heavy duty pneumatic impact gun like they use in the long haul truck stops.

Chum lee

A pancake compressor wouldn't last for one lug bolt, if that.