Torque on Lug Nuts
Quick question. Has anyone ever had to have their lug nuts re-torqued after having new tires installed?
Forum Discussion
RedRollingRoadblock wrote:Chum lee wrote:Bruce Brown wrote:Chum lee wrote:
Whenever anyone (well, . . . besides myself) touches the wheels, tires, suspension components, etc., on ANY vehicle I own, drive, etc.,
I ALWAYS check/retorque at least a few of the lug nuts/bolts before I leave visual range of the shop that just worked on it. I don't enjoy getting stuck with a flat tire, at night, while it's raining/pouring in the middle of nowhere with a lug nut/bolt that was torqued to 450 ft-lbs and now I CAN'T GET IT OFF with the tools I have. The factory spec on the MH is 150 ft-lbs.
Chum lee
Factory specs on ours is 450#. My biggest torque wrench only goes to 300#. Might be time,for a torque multiplier.
Wow! 450 ft-lbs. That's a lot. (well beyond the capability of mortal men) A torque multiplier is a good idea. If I was driving your vehicle (no, I'm not giving advice here) I would consider investing in a 120 volt pancake style compressor and a 3/4" drive heavy duty pneumatic impact gun like they use in the long haul truck stops.
Chum lee
A pancake compressor wouldn't last for one lug bolt, if that.
Oh, . . . come on. Please stop it. I'm not saying that owning something like a Dewalt/PorterCable 6 gallon 120 volt pancake compressor (no affiliation) is the most efficient, production line industrial/commercial way to live your life. THAT'S NOT WHAT I'M/WE'RE TALKING ABOUT HERE. Granted, when using a pancake style compressor, you may have to pause briefly to recharge the tank (to 165 psi) after breaking a few oyer-torqued lug bolts/nuts (maybe 650 ft-lbs in this case) but it WILL get them off so that you can, . . . git-er-done in an emergency situation rather than sitting dead in the water. (waiting for some (IMO) predatory overpriced "expert" like you to show up)
Chum lee
