Make a Permanent custom Cabover Window Cover

Thanks Glennts. I just had surgery and it will be a while before I can attempt something this big if I decide to go this route. I will post photos of the front cab over. Running lights are mounted in roof cap.

>>can't get the first two pictures.
there is just the one

>>What did you do about the inside?

There is a wood frame into which the window is inserted. I screwed/glued 1x2"s to provide a surface to attache the plywood blank that was cut to the window frame dimension. Filled the space beneath the plywood with regular spun fiberglass and then glued a full sheet of vinyl ceiling material from an RV supplier over the existing ceiling ( @ $48)

>>So you applied the fiberglass sheet directly onto the filon or existing fiberglass?

Yes. Much simpler this way and you have maximum surface area to which to adhere the new surface.

>> I have a roof cap that is screwed on and caulked over. A fiberglass sheet could be slid under that and rescrewed. How long did it take you?

Don't know about "sliding under". That suggests to me having to bend the 4x8 sheet to accomplish that and given the complex curve of the nose that probably won't work. (assuming I understand what you mean). I had removed all the trim so that the edges of the filon were exposed and then cleaned of butyl tape.

Took less than a half day. The tricky part was handling the 4x8 sheet of fiberglass and getting it to edge align with the original filon ( which turned out to not be square). I was doing this unassisted so my approach was to clamp 1x2's along the long side that met the roof (trimmed down to the actual width of the roof). This I then roped off to the AC to take the weight and allow the sheet to hang down over the nose. I had placed lengths of 1" VHB tape on perimeter of the original filon with several parallel strips across the top/roof edge and the nose. The process became one of spreading adhesive on a section of the filon and then locking the fiberglass down by peeling away the backing on the VHB. Once you get the top section done the rest is easy.

As mentioned, instead of reusing the aluminum trim along the side edges I layered strips of fiberglass tape for a leak proof solution (accept for the roof join). This part of the job took several days of working the tape/epoxy/filler/sanding/painting.

It's not hard to do if you just take your time. Total out of pocket was @$250 which included the MAS epoxy and fiberglass tape. The 1" 3M VHB tape I got on eBay for $38 / 50' roll.

Keep in mind that when you do this you will have to deal with the running lights. I chose to remove these leak prone tear drop lights entirely and made a light strip of LED's that I attached to the new surface (VHB). I quick connected to the original 12V wires and pulled that thru a hole in the new surface. The LED's were attached to a length of the plastic wall strip used to organize computer wires. I treated this plastic strip with several coats of Krylon for UV protection.

glennts, can't get the first two pictures. can you send a PM with them? Looks great! What did you do about the inside? So you applied the fiberglass sheet directly onto the filon or exixting fiberglass? I have a roof cap that is screwed on and caulked over. A fiberglass sheet could be slid under that and rescrewed. How long did it take you?

Removed the window frame and inserted a plywood blank and fiberglassed around the edges of the hole. At a lumber surplus yard found a suitable sheet of fiberglass from among the 100's of thousands of samples they had ( $12 ). Removed the edge molding and attached the fiberglass to the original skin using 3M VHB tape at the edges and bath tile adhesive across the general surface. Ran three strips of VHB across the nose and once the sheet was bent into contact with the tape it never let go.



Instead of putting the edge molding back on and putting holes in the new surface I replaced all the molding on the front of the RV. with 5 layers of 4" fiberglass tape / epoxy. Eventually I'll replace to the backside molding as well.

Got a reply from a local fiberglass shop. They can fabricate a cover for the cab over window. A mold would need to be made costing around $1,700 and each unit made $175. They said I would own the mold and could sell the units. It's cheaper than having Winnebago remove the window. I'm not ready to go into business, I'm retiring in 2 months.
It was just a thought.

rockhillmanor wrote:
Caulk the window and cabover lights correctly and maintain them to "prevent" leaks.

IMHO, JMHO. Drilling, cutting, opening up the cab over is just asking for more problems and no matter how hard you try it is just going to compound any leaking problem that can occur. Especially if you start changing the structure of the cab over. Just saying.

x2. I have a window in the cabover and we do use it. I think the best way to deal with it going forward is good maintenance.

I have been considering getting rid of the front window for some time. I am thinking I would remove the window, frame the space with appropriate sized wood, put luan on the inside, fill the spaces with Styrofoam, then fiberglass over the window space feathering the new fiberglass into the existing fiberglass. It might leave a slight rise around the patch.

I haven't done anything about it mainly because I have no sheltered place to work, and as far as I know, no leaks, yet.

Sagecoachdriver wrote:
Found a fiberglass truck tonneau cover manufacturer who can custom make it.

I'm having trouble seeing how that will fix your problem. Are you going to have someone glass the tonneau cover onto your filon?

I sympathize with your goal. I assumed the best way would be to cut a panel of the correct size to fit the opening, and have someone glass it into place. Then sand and paint to suit. You could have a custom design of some sort painted over the repair to hide it.

I read on a topic way back that lexan expands and shrinks a lot. It's probably easy to remove the window and replace the pane with something. I just don't care for the look of the window with caulking all around it. Tough job to keep it up. I am in contact with a company that will custom make a cover. I could always take the window out, replace it with lexan and reinstall it. Then drill holes in the lexan for the bolts to go thru and anchor it to wood or metal beams to secure it. Then, nothing can't be undone if I don't like it.

We like our cab over window as you mostly back into rv sites. Have view of stars at night is great.