Make a Permanent custom Cabover Window Cover
Having an older Class C with the obsolete cabover window has given rise for concern over leaking or the glass shattering. Most Class C manufacturers have dropped the window from their line. We never o...
Forum Discussion
>>can't get the first two pictures.
there is just the one
>>What did you do about the inside?
There is a wood frame into which the window is inserted. I screwed/glued 1x2"s to provide a surface to attache the plywood blank that was cut to the window frame dimension. Filled the space beneath the plywood with regular spun fiberglass and then glued a full sheet of vinyl ceiling material from an RV supplier over the existing ceiling ( @ $48)
>>So you applied the fiberglass sheet directly onto the filon or existing fiberglass?
Yes. Much simpler this way and you have maximum surface area to which to adhere the new surface.
>> I have a roof cap that is screwed on and caulked over. A fiberglass sheet could be slid under that and rescrewed. How long did it take you?
Don't know about "sliding under". That suggests to me having to bend the 4x8 sheet to accomplish that and given the complex curve of the nose that probably won't work. (assuming I understand what you mean). I had removed all the trim so that the edges of the filon were exposed and then cleaned of butyl tape.
Took less than a half day. The tricky part was handling the 4x8 sheet of fiberglass and getting it to edge align with the original filon ( which turned out to not be square). I was doing this unassisted so my approach was to clamp 1x2's along the long side that met the roof (trimmed down to the actual width of the roof). This I then roped off to the AC to take the weight and allow the sheet to hang down over the nose. I had placed lengths of 1" VHB tape on perimeter of the original filon with several parallel strips across the top/roof edge and the nose. The process became one of spreading adhesive on a section of the filon and then locking the fiberglass down by peeling away the backing on the VHB. Once you get the top section done the rest is easy.
As mentioned, instead of reusing the aluminum trim along the side edges I layered strips of fiberglass tape for a leak proof solution (accept for the roof join). This part of the job took several days of working the tape/epoxy/filler/sanding/painting.
It's not hard to do if you just take your time. Total out of pocket was @$250 which included the MAS epoxy and fiberglass tape. The 1" 3M VHB tape I got on eBay for $38 / 50' roll.
Keep in mind that when you do this you will have to deal with the running lights. I chose to remove these leak prone tear drop lights entirely and made a light strip of LED's that I attached to the new surface (VHB). I quick connected to the original 12V wires and pulled that thru a hole in the new surface. The LED's were attached to a length of the plastic wall strip used to organize computer wires. I treated this plastic strip with several coats of Krylon for UV protection.
there is just the one
>>What did you do about the inside?
There is a wood frame into which the window is inserted. I screwed/glued 1x2"s to provide a surface to attache the plywood blank that was cut to the window frame dimension. Filled the space beneath the plywood with regular spun fiberglass and then glued a full sheet of vinyl ceiling material from an RV supplier over the existing ceiling ( @ $48)
>>So you applied the fiberglass sheet directly onto the filon or existing fiberglass?
Yes. Much simpler this way and you have maximum surface area to which to adhere the new surface.
>> I have a roof cap that is screwed on and caulked over. A fiberglass sheet could be slid under that and rescrewed. How long did it take you?
Don't know about "sliding under". That suggests to me having to bend the 4x8 sheet to accomplish that and given the complex curve of the nose that probably won't work. (assuming I understand what you mean). I had removed all the trim so that the edges of the filon were exposed and then cleaned of butyl tape.
Took less than a half day. The tricky part was handling the 4x8 sheet of fiberglass and getting it to edge align with the original filon ( which turned out to not be square). I was doing this unassisted so my approach was to clamp 1x2's along the long side that met the roof (trimmed down to the actual width of the roof). This I then roped off to the AC to take the weight and allow the sheet to hang down over the nose. I had placed lengths of 1" VHB tape on perimeter of the original filon with several parallel strips across the top/roof edge and the nose. The process became one of spreading adhesive on a section of the filon and then locking the fiberglass down by peeling away the backing on the VHB. Once you get the top section done the rest is easy.
As mentioned, instead of reusing the aluminum trim along the side edges I layered strips of fiberglass tape for a leak proof solution (accept for the roof join). This part of the job took several days of working the tape/epoxy/filler/sanding/painting.
It's not hard to do if you just take your time. Total out of pocket was @$250 which included the MAS epoxy and fiberglass tape. The 1" 3M VHB tape I got on eBay for $38 / 50' roll.
Keep in mind that when you do this you will have to deal with the running lights. I chose to remove these leak prone tear drop lights entirely and made a light strip of LED's that I attached to the new surface (VHB). I quick connected to the original 12V wires and pulled that thru a hole in the new surface. The LED's were attached to a length of the plastic wall strip used to organize computer wires. I treated this plastic strip with several coats of Krylon for UV protection.
