Forum Discussion

Sound_Choice's avatar
Sound_Choice
Explorer
Aug 01, 2013

Master cylinder for 1974 R-50 Chassis

HELP...HELP...HELP... I know this is about a Class A Chassis but perhaps someone has some experience. I have what appears to be a cast iron master cylinder that is leaking. It also appears to have vacuum or air assist. All the parts people tell me it is obsolete and no longer available...the salvage yards look at me like I'm nuts! Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm in the Kansas City area. Tnx, Kc
  • Thank you one and all for your help...i'm going through your "advisings" for a solution. TNX, Kc
  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    It often happens that the bore gets rusted in spots that get too deep to hone out. There was a company, I think called A-1, that bored them and put a stainless steel sleeve in. Remembering that, I wonder what the Antique and Classic car buffs do. A Hot Rodder would likely use late model parts, but a lot of the vintage stuff is judged for how original everything is. Wonder what they do...
  • As a last resort, you could try rebuilding your Master Cylinder. It isn't too hard of a job. The key is how worn out to bores are and whether or not it can be honed out. Also, Check with Six Roblees they stock all kinds of Brake Parts for Light Duty and Heavy Duty vehicles. Good luck.

    Bob in Calif.
  • Did you try ebay and search for 1974 dodge master cylinder?

    Ebay search
    Look at those and see if you find one that looks like yours.

    Jose
  • That would be one of the 1973-74 designations for the RM350 chassis, which was called RM375 and M400 in previous years. All are designations for the larger Dodge bare chassis, as opposed to the lighter M300 (RM300).

    Check whether any parts books have references to M400, RM375, RM350 or variations on that.

    There is a forum somewhere (I don't have the URL) for Dodge chassis motorhomes. The guys there can probably help you.
  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    Just What IS an R-50?

    I think you needs a parts person with understanding and experience. Not one who chose parts over high school. He's retired, but we had a parts man who could take the "sharp" edge of a file where the bottom meets the edge) and scratch a casting till he could read the casting numbers. Then research in ON PAPER to back into what it was and what he might do. Now the first question is "What's it On?" Either many parts outlets don't have good cross-reference data ("computer tells me this Fram number will replace your Purolator number") OR they don't know how to access and use it. A part peculiar to simply one application does in fact happen, but as often or not the part was used on something else. I needed a boat trailer brake actuator and the man I mentioned was able to supply it as from a common automotive application.
    Can you substitute an available part for yours? You may be able to find a car/light truck/medium truck setup that will work if you adapt the mounting and the lines. If you do this, there's more than the obvious "getting it to bolt up." A couple are
    1. when your brake pedal is released, the master cylinder piston MUST be all the way released also
    2. the pin that pushes the master cylinder piston must REACH the machined pocket in the piston
    3. you can't make your own brake lines using anything but steel INVERTED FLARE lines and related fittings. it's a different flare and material than hardware store stuff
  • Need more information about the RV. What chassis is it on, Ford, Dodge, Chevy, etc.
    Ford would be F-??
    Dodge would be WB300 or other
    Chevy would be P-30 or other
    Also who is the maker of the RV?