Mirror
I have a 2003 Ford E-450 Class C motorhome. My drivers side mirror quit locking. Is there any repair?
Forum Discussion
Glad you made it! There are a few threads here about those Velvac mirrors. I felt badly that our entry level 2003 RV (on 200TWO chassis, thanks for that tip, Tom!) did not have those mirrors. We have the box truck/rental truck tripod mounts. They aren't power adjust, they aren't heated, but I've added lights and LARGE wide angle supplemental mirrors to them. We have a really great field of view and they don't break.
I think the problem is, Velvac uses pot metal for the pivot tube that lets the mirror fold. They press down on a spring and detent washer (that provides the stops when extended) then crimp the pot metal over that washer. The pot metal gets tired over time with use, folding, vibration... Then it loses its tightness on the washer and wobbles or won't stay extended. Then also, it may come totally un-crimped and the mirror arm drops.
I've thought up a fix but haven't had a mirror to try it on: Find a threaded tube (thinking of a pipe nipple or the threaded tubing that's used in light fixtures) and epoxy it into the original pivot tube. Or drill the tube out some to get the new piece to fit, but epoxy it to where enough thread sticks past the detent washer that you can use a nut to simulate the crimp. By that I mean both hold the mirror together again AND compress that spring so you have detent. Being tubular, the repair part lets you run the adusting/heating/lighting wires. Either saw the tube off for an OEM look, or leave it extended to ease future repairs. If there's no wiring, could use threaded rod instead of pipe or tubing.
As I said, never tried it. Just a picture in my mind.
I think the problem is, Velvac uses pot metal for the pivot tube that lets the mirror fold. They press down on a spring and detent washer (that provides the stops when extended) then crimp the pot metal over that washer. The pot metal gets tired over time with use, folding, vibration... Then it loses its tightness on the washer and wobbles or won't stay extended. Then also, it may come totally un-crimped and the mirror arm drops.
I've thought up a fix but haven't had a mirror to try it on: Find a threaded tube (thinking of a pipe nipple or the threaded tubing that's used in light fixtures) and epoxy it into the original pivot tube. Or drill the tube out some to get the new piece to fit, but epoxy it to where enough thread sticks past the detent washer that you can use a nut to simulate the crimp. By that I mean both hold the mirror together again AND compress that spring so you have detent. Being tubular, the repair part lets you run the adusting/heating/lighting wires. Either saw the tube off for an OEM look, or leave it extended to ease future repairs. If there's no wiring, could use threaded rod instead of pipe or tubing.
As I said, never tried it. Just a picture in my mind.
