Motorhome Washing with Deionizer or Water Softner

I use the on the go system, water softener and deionizer

SCVJeff wrote:
Water softness are not deionizers. Mine does nothing for spots. im sure someone here can explain why

EXACTLY!!!!!!!!!

In all reality, there is only two ways to wash a vehicle, rinse it and walk away from it, IF you have hard water in your area. One is a Deionizer and the other is a Commercial R.O. System. Before I purchased the CR Spotless System, we had a local detail company (Wishy Washy here in Lake Havasu) wash our coach. They use RO water. They have a commercial system at their residence that makes the RO water and then they transfer it to their tank in their van, to be used for RV washes.

As I stated previously, our Costco CR Spotless system worked outstanding for quite a few washings. But, based on the fact that here in Lake Havasu City AZ, we have water that can be used for brick walls, (it's that hard), the CR system works seriously harder in creating "spot free" water.

DSDP Don,
Your statement that: "Most should get about 2 years out of their initial purchase" might apply to someone that lives in Oregon or any other area where water is almost deionized as it emerges from the average fawcett but, here in Lake Havasu, at present, I'm lucky to get a couple of months before needing new resin. The harder the water, the faster the resins degenerate. And another factor that determines the length of time the resin lasts is, how often it's used. We use our coach quite a bit and it gets dirty. When we return home, it gets washed. Could be a couple times a month.

We also do quite a bit of Jeeping here and around which, means the Jeep gets dirty. So, out comes the D.I. system. Hence, this is why we're not getting all that long of operational time.

And, you mentioned that CR Spotless recommends no more than 15 psi entering their units. I just brought up on line, the instructions for their units. In those instructions, it states: "PSI" has no bearing on the operation of these units". The amount of GPM DOES have an effect on them though. As I stated earlier, the more Gallons of hard water that the units have to treat, the faster the resins are depleted. This is why they DO recommend using a garden sprayer nozzle with the "Flat" spray setting. If you have different instructions, I'd like to see them if possible. I'd like to preserve our CR system as long as possible too.

I really don't need the CR system for the Jeep or the truck. It's primarily for the motorhome because as we all have already stated, washing a coach and getting it dry BEFORE any spots appear is almost impossible. So, to be able to wash, rinse and walk away dripping wet, is a life saver.
Scott

The deionized water is way better than just soft water. I just got my CR deionizer and have done the cars a few times and need to do the MH today. It's hard to leave all that water on the vehicle without wiping it off but when the water evaporates there are no spots.
I also fill gallon jugs with the deionized water to take for Window washing (using a bug sprayer) and battery water.

SCVJeff wrote:
Water softness are not deionizers. Mine does nothing for spots. im sure someone here can explain why

A water softener exchanges the hardness (mainly Calcium & Magnesium plus often iron) for salt (Sodium Chloride). The harder the water, the more salt will be in the outlet of the softener. When you rinse with the softened water, it will evaporate and leave the salt behind on the surface as spots.

To really have a spot free rinse, you need deionized water. This is a much more expensive method of water treatment and not something that is economical to do except for small quantities (i.e. an RO unit for drinking water).

Personally, I like the rainwater collection idea that one of the replies mentioned.

When I lived MI we had well water. At the time we had three black vehicles. I got a plastic drum
And made a rainwater collection device. Washed the vehicle with the well water then as a final rinse I turned on the pump for the rainwater rinse. Worked perfectly and always had comments about how nice my black cars or truck looked.

Water softness are not deionizers. Mine does nothing for spots. im sure someone here can explain why

I've used this water softner for 2 years on my cars, motorcycle and motorhome with no drying and no spots left.
Water softner

I wash our MH with no pressurized water. We do have very hard water. My method is filling a 5 gallon pail with 4 gallons of water, less than 1/8 cup of cider vinegar and a couple drops of dawn dish soap. By using a squeegee combo sponge all on the same head, it attaches to a painters extending pole. I soak the sponge part in the water and do sections at a time. Before it has a chance to dry I squeegee it off. Never have any spots. I can do the whole coach with water leftover.

I even do it at campgrounds.

We live in Southern California and if you don't wipe off the water, it'll spot. I also bought the CR unit from Costco. The cartridge refills are pricey. It came new with the tanks loaded and one refill.

They recommend that you don't use more than 15psi water pressure with the CR unit. I had an old adjustable RV regulator that I put on the CR unit and adjusted to 15psi. You'll shorten the life of the beads at higher pressure.

I wash my coach, one side at a time, washing and rinsing as I go. The first rinse, I use the regular water to get the soap off. I then rinse with the CR unit. I have both hoses laying side by side, so it's a pretty easy/quick process. By trying to minimize the CR use as I do, I get about 10 washings out of a tank of beads (one year). So, most should get about two years out of their initial purchase with the refill. A refill costs about $100.00.

At least for us weekenders, I would use my tank water from home for rinse. It's great water.