My engine replacement odyssey has begun. I posted questions about the 460 V8 in my 1994 Holiday Rambler some time back and after much engine diagnosis and finally laboratory analysis of my crankcase oil I’ve determined that I need a new engine (Engine replacement 1992-1995 Holiday Rambler Vacationer).Since folks online asked if I would keep them posted on my progress (several are interested in doing an engine replacement themselves) I’ve decided to start this thread. I’ll try to photo-document the hi-lights.My first problem was finding a place to do the work. Fortunately, I have a friend who has a place in San Marcos TX with a large paved area. He’s kindly let me set up there. The 160 mile trip in my RV from Houston to San Marcos with an engine I now know is on the verge of failure was tense to say the least but the old gurl had at least one last trip left in her and I’m happy to say I’m now set up in San Marcos (I’m certain the 50 weight oil I put in the engine helped). Today I’ll be ordering a rebuilt long block engine assembly from O’Reilly Auto Parts (thank you enblethen) and while I await the 5-10 days for delivery I’ll begin the old engine removal. It’s getting frighteningly close to the arrival of hell (aka summertime) here in the Texas hill country so I’ll probably have to limit my work time to mornings.In my 67 years I’ve done about a dozen engine replacements, however having to install from the front looks like it’ll present a whole new level of mechanical misery. Steve

MY Buddy built a engine removal tool out of some 1/4" plate metal, that was welded so that one piece was 90 degrees to the other, then cut 2" diameter holes in the top piece (that is upright) and used the hoist to pick up the engine with this. It bolts on where the carburetor is installed, and actually the engine is fairly well balanced at that point. So the bottom plate is the size of the carburetor, and has 4 holes in it (flat plate say 5" or 6" square with holes the same bolt pattern as the carb. ) The upright piece is about 3" tall, and has a hole cut in it, so that picking up the engine it is balanced. (I guess a lot of practice went into designing that bracket). He built a couple of these to get it right. I was able to get a van engine out of a 87 motorhome in a short time using that bracket! Went back in really easy too. I know one member here that took out his radiator from a Bounder, and had it cleaned. It was a ordeal! My guess is that once the radiator is out of the way, then getting the stuff off the front of the engine is step 2, so it will be much more compact to remove it. Needless to say, marking all the wiring, and taking video will help in the re-assembly. After two engine, you probably already knew that 20 years ago! Good luck on your project! Fred.

What about the oil analysis told you the engine was on the verge of failure? Are you planning any performance mods while the engine is out?

Hopefully you ordered a truck motor and not the less expensive passanger car version?

When I replaced the engine on my old Allegro (454-holed piston), we removed the front suspension assy & dropped the engine out the bottom with the front end raised way up of course.

Golden_HVAC wrote:MY Buddy built a engine removal tool out of some 1/4" plate metal, that was welded so that one piece was 90 degrees to the other, then cut 2" diameter holes in the top piece (that is upright) and used the hoist to pick up the engine with this. It bolts on where the carburetor is installed, and actually the engine is fairly well balanced at that point. So the bottom plate is the size of the carburetor, and has 4 holes in it (flat plate say 5" or 6" square with holes the same bolt pattern as the carb. ) The upright piece is about 3" tall, and has a hole cut in it, so that picking up the engine it is balanced. (I guess a lot of practice went into designing that bracket). He built a couple of these to get it right. I was able to get a van engine out of a 87 motorhome in a short time using that bracket! Went back in really easy too. I know one member here that took out his radiator from a Bounder, and had it cleaned. It was a ordeal! My guess is that once the radiator is out of the way, then getting the stuff off the front of the engine is step 2, so it will be much more compact to remove it. Needless to say, marking all the wiring, and taking video will help in the re-assembly. After two engine, you probably already knew that 20 years ago! Good luck on your project! Fred.I have a couple of these lift plates and they work well. I think last one I bought was about $20.00 from Summit racing but you can get one thru most parts stores.

My Engine replacement odyssey - 1994 HR | Good Sam Community

RLS7201
Explorer II
Jun 19, 2015
Geocritter wrote:
RLS7201 wrote:
Thank you very much for posting your project. Now I know my engine will come out the front when I do my engine swap this year.

Safe and happy travels
Richard

Dang Richard, now I realize I didn't take any photos of how I arranged the engine lift. To summarize, I removed the intake manifold and bolted a tight chain from one head to the other across the middle. I didn't use the hook on the beam but rather attached the chain directly to the beam where the hook would normally be. That way I gave it as much lift clearance as possible and could still tilt the engine front and rear to clear the lower front frame member with the oil pan. But yep, it'll come out the front. Also tried to put the RV at a height where the crane beam was as level as possible when the engine was lifted as high as it would go.

PM me if what I've written here isn't clear.

Steve

PS Now that I'm done I don't envy the task you have in front of you.

Thanks Steve,

In one of your pictures I could see the crane beam was very close to the valley and you used a second chain for the front of the engine. So yes, I picked up on what you did. Clever.
Being an old gear head, I don't fear the up coming event. I have my concrete RV pad next to my garage and will be under no time constraints. The cherry picker, engine stand and transmission jack are in the garage waiting. Just got a call from my engine builder and my 8.6L BBF short block will be shipping on 6/23/15.

Safe travels
Richard
bumpus4
Explorer
Jun 19, 2015
Great Job posting. Good luck on your road trips. I am happy for you the engine exchange turned out the way it did.

Bumpus4 (rockhound 101)
WILDEBILL308
Explorer II
Jun 19, 2015
Congratulations!!! Now you can go relax a little like you were planning on before all this started.
Bill
John_Joey
Explorer
Jun 17, 2015
Geocritter wrote:
...So far it hasn't rained much here in San Marcos this time.

That's good news. Sounds like the Gulf coast and not Hill country is getting hit this time around. Crazy weather.

Congrat's on a job well done. Many on the forum talk poorly about the 460, transmission, and 16 inch tires (vs V10,) but my '96 just kept ticking off the miles year after year.
Geocritter
Explorer
Jun 17, 2015
ArchHoagland wrote:
You forgot one thing...you better put a propeller on the back of that rig with all the rain you guys are getting!!!

Thanks for the thread, it was fun reading.

I don't need a propeller, the rain's no longer a problem. When the bad weather looked as if it was headed my way I turned the key and moved to higher ground. I wasn't going to test my luck for a third time! So far it hasn't rained much here in San Marcos this time.

Steve
ArchHoagland
Explorer
Jun 17, 2015
You forgot one thing...you better put a propeller on the back of that rig with all the rain you guys are getting!!!

Thanks for the thread, it was fun reading.
Geocritter
Explorer
Jun 17, 2015
RLS7201 wrote:
Thank you very much for posting your project. Now I know my engine will come out the front when I do my engine swap this year.

Safe and happy travels
Richard

Dang Richard, now I realize I didn't take any photos of how I arranged the engine lift. To summarize, I removed the intake manifold and bolted a tight chain from one head to the other across the middle. I didn't use the hook on the beam but rather attached the chain directly to the beam where the hook would normally be. That way I gave it as much lift clearance as possible and could still tilt the engine front and rear to clear the lower front frame member with the oil pan. But yep, it'll come out the front. Also tried to put the RV at a height where the crane beam was as level as possible when the engine was lifted as high as it would go.

PM me if what I've written here isn't clear.

Steve

PS Now that I'm done I don't envy the task you have in front of you.
Geocritter
Explorer
Jun 17, 2015
jhilley wrote:
Congratulations, let us know how it compares to the old engine on the road.

I'm interested in that question myself. As tired, abused and neglected as the old engine was when I got it I was always pleased with its performance on the road. It'll be interesting to see the difference between it and the new engine.
turbojimmy
Explorer
Jun 16, 2015
Nice work. Enjoy it - it should serve you well for a long time now.
outofplace
Explorer
Jun 16, 2015
Congratulations man thats a tough job and you conquered it with flying colors AWESOME Job

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