My Jamboree Build

Its_Hondo wrote:
This is really a technical build thread so please keep the comments on topic.

(If it was me I'd want to be made aware of, all at the same time and place if possible, anything and everything that could affect my enjoyment/use of a newly acquired RV.)

Nevertheless OK .... here's some technical build stuff (I didn't re-read this long discussion thread, so you may have already aknowledged some of this.):

- Make sure your rear wheel wells and any areas behind your rear wheel wells are steel lined so a blown rear tire can't tear anything up.

- Make sure your spare tire's valve stem is exposed (not tucked in behind someway) so you can conveniently keep it aired up to the highest pressure you're using on any of the RV's tires.

- Make sure your vents have the vent covers that are hinged on one side so it's convenient to unlatch the vent covers and pivot each one to the side to vacuum off (from the roof) the debris that collects on the top sides of your inner vent screens.

- Make sure that your dual 12 volt coach batteries (if that's what you're using) have very large gauge inter-connect cabling between them so they remain micro current-balanced at all times.

- Make sure that your dual 12 volt coach batteries (if that's what you're using) are hooked together in balanced configuration so they remain current-balanced under all charge or drain conditions.

- Make sure your engine-coach batteries' automatic inter-connect solenoid has contacts made of material that cannot pit or corrode over time and use.

- Replace your crank-up roof TV antenna's seals to prevent water leakage into your ceilings from old, dried out failed seals.

- Replace your toilet flush valve before it fails on a trip (vibration can create micro-cracks in it's casing) and leaves you with a flooded interior and/or a toilet you cannot use until you find a new one and install it yourself or have it installed.

- Replace any rubber couplings that are getting cracked that soft-join grey or black water drain ABS pipes to the tanks themselves.

- Install bug shields over the furnace, water heater, and refrigerator outside vents so wasps cannot over time build nests in there.

- Crawl underneath your rig and install plastic shielding and strain relieving cable-ties everywhere where tubing or wiring might rub up against surfaces over time.

- Replace your water pump if it's the original or old ... as eventually it will fail and leave you without water on an RV trip.

- Drain your water heater, as eventually deposits in the bottom of it will build up and damage it or at least keep it from working properly.

- Carry a pressure regulator along and use it to keep your interior pressure no higher that 20-30 PSI when on campground hookup water.

- Tighten the bolts holding your awning to the RV .... they may have loosened over time.

- Install an anti-unfurl device on your awning.

- Tighten the bolts holding your coach steps to the coach's framing.

- Install both a voltmeter and ammeter on your cab dash that monitors your coach batteries while going down the road to catch failure of the alternator charging your coach batteries and/or to prevent failure to turn back on your coach's 12 volt system after refueling (done for safety so a re-igniting of your refrigerator burner during refueling can't cause a gas fume explosion).

- Make sure your coach door lock is still "locking" the coach. Ours started wearing to it seemed like it was still doing it's job ... but with a hard enough pull ... the door could be opened.

- Re-tighten/check the bolts holding your built-in generator's exhaust pipe onto it's exhaust manifold.

- Make sure there are not cracks in the rubber fuel line supplying your built-in generator from the main gas tank.

- Hide a set of keys, to at least your cab doors, somewhere on the outside of your motorhome.

- Carry both metric and non-metric tools if your rig uses both types.