need engine service on Class A around Wichita KS area

Someone makes a oil pressure switch to turn on that fuel pump only when the motors running.

Yes. Full time = on whenever the engine is running.To avoid vapor lock, fuel starvation, use all the time. JT

good info guys, appreciate it. let me ask.....would it be "normal" to have to run the add-on electric fuel pump while cruising highway speeds on this old of a rig? thanks

The early motorhomes with the Dodge 360 and 440 had problems with the fuel delivery system. The mechanical pump can not handle the low quality fuel now being produced allowing the engine to vapor lock. The best solution is install a full time electric pump as close to the tank as possible, in addition to checking the entire fuel system as JimM68 stated.

Google "RV service reviews" for a shop close to you

certainly appreciate all of the input. hopefully I can spend some serious time this weekend making some progress !

We had a late 70's Class C with the Dodge 360 and had our share of run ability problems. I replaced the automatic choke mechanism on the carburetor with a manual choke and that solved it for us. Have you considered that area of the fuel/air system.

JimM68 wrote:
I know nothing of shops in that area, but....

As you've covered the easy stuff, I'm thinking your problem is a fuel line.
RV fuel lines will be mostly metal, with some rubber sections.
A rig that old, the metal will be steel, not stainless, and prone to rust.
Any rubber sections may be just plain shot, collapse under suction, or just be coming apart inside.
The other culprit could be the sock on the pickup inside the tank. This is usually part of the sending unit, and may or may not be accessible without dropping the tank.

Start with replacing all the rubber parts of the fuel line.
If there is a return line, ditto for it.
While you are under there, inspect all the metal lines. Look for rusty areas, particularly at sharp bends. Be careful here, what is a rusty air (suction) leak could easily become an active fuel leak if disturbed, look but don't touch until/unless you are ready to replace.

While going to stainless lines seems the hot setup, the stuff is horribly hard to bend and even harder to flair. I suggest sticking with steel, much easier to work with, and will last another twenty years no problem.

Great answer - and really good advice - what you will need if unable to do it yourself is an older Dodge mechanic someone who understands the beast you are working on, before we (Old company) went to all diesel we had a couple Dodges - once you get them running they will run till they die but once you start to have an issue, if you don't find the problem you will always be looking over your shoulder.

While you are under there take a look at the Metal Brake lines they are prone to the same rust - Just go ahead and replace them too.

BOL,

I know nothing of shops in that area, but....

As you've covered the easy stuff, I'm thinking your problem is a fuel line.
RV fuel lines will be mostly metal, with some rubber sections.
A rig that old, the metal will be steel, not stainless, and prone to rust.
Any rubber sections may be just plain shot, collapse under suction, or just be coming apart inside.
The other culprit could be the sock on the pickup inside the tank. This is usually part of the sending unit, and may or may not be accessible without dropping the tank.

Start with replacing all the rubber parts of the fuel line.
If there is a return line, ditto for it.
While you are under there, inspect all the metal lines. Look for rusty areas, particularly at sharp bends. Be careful here, what is a rusty air (suction) leak could easily become an active fuel leak if disturbed, look but don't touch until/unless you are ready to replace.

While going to stainless lines seems the hot setup, the stuff is horribly hard to bend and even harder to flair. I suggest sticking with steel, much easier to work with, and will last another twenty years no problem.