Need for pads/blocks with hydrolic levelers?

Shouldn't need them for additional lift??? Sorry Dale, I have to agree with FIRE UP. Sure, I try to reposition in a RV site or boondocking site to improve the situation. But I've relied on the blocks many many times for additional leveling support.

It even says in the article you linked...one of the four functions jack pads were designed for..."provide additional lift to allow the coach to obtain a level position when parked on uneven ground".

The OP is planning to do a lot of boondocking, which I imagine might require this function sometimes.

I would read the factory manual to determine the leveling procedure. Anything else is guess work!!!

Dale.Traveling wrote:
You shouldn't need them for additional lift. If you need that much first try to reposition the coach.

What many will use pads for is to make a bigger foot print and spread the weight of the coach out. You want to avoid leaving makes in hard surfaces of an improved campsite or have to climb under the coach to assist a jack that has sunk into the ground and won't retract.

Simplest, lowest cost jack pad is to head on down to your local big box store and pick out a fairly straight 2" x 12" x 8' plank and have them cut it into 12" lengths. The wood might split with use but being dry makes for great kindling if you slit it some more. The more purpose made pads you can buy can cost anywhere from a few dollars to over $25 each.

Long term low cost landing pads are 2" x 6" lumber sandwiched between 1/4" or so plywood. Even if the 2 x 6 splits the ply holds everything together. Saw one owner who actually urethane sealed the pads.

And a little light reading - Motorhome Magazine

Well Sir,
Not all campsites/RV spots are level. And some, are quite unlevel. "Repositioning" isn't gonna cut it if the entire site is unlevel. And, many folks say, "Well, if it's that unlevel, just move to another spot". Yeah sure you're going to do that, when every single campsite in the park is spoken for and, you've had reservations for months. We've camped all over the U.S. and, without a doubt, bringing along my small lumber yard which includes ramps, blocks, and more, has come very, very useful multiple times when the sites are less than desirable.

You are right about "sandwiching" the 2x material though. I did it with twin 4"x6"x 11" blocks. I put 1/2" plywood on both sides. They're indestructible. I've also got ramps made from 1 1/8" in decking plywood. Those too are indestructible. Yep, they weight a little bit to haul around but, when you're driving on something with a heavy diesel rig, you want them to last.
Scott

You shouldn't need them for additional lift. If you need that much first try to reposition the coach.

What many will use pads for is to make a bigger foot print and spread the weight of the coach out. You want to avoid leaving makes in hard surfaces of an improved campsite or have to climb under the coach to assist a jack that has sunk into the ground and won't retract.

Simplest, lowest cost jack pad is to head on down to your local big box store and pick out a fairly straight 2" x 12" x 8' plank and have them cut it into 12" lengths. The wood might split with use but being dry makes for great kindling if you slit it some more. The more purpose made pads you can buy can cost anywhere from a few dollars to over $25 each.

Long term low cost landing pads are 2" x 6" lumber sandwiched between 1/4" or so plywood. Even if the 2 x 6 splits the ply holds everything together. Saw one owner who actually urethane sealed the pads.

And a little light reading - Motorhome Magazine

sonbeau wrote:
We have a 33 ft Jayco Precept class A with hydrolic levelers and will be making our first long trip cross country. We will be boondocking a good share of the way. Should we have a set of jack pads and/or camco blocks with us? Just pads or both?
And, should the coach always be leveled before opening any slides?
Thanks for any input :-)

The subject of slide extension before or after leveling is debated on here and other RV forums weekly. About 98% of the time, the manufacturers of about 99% of the RVs out there, Class A or C, state in the owners manual to LEVEL FIRST then, extend any slides. The 1% that say the other way, is rare.

As for leveling and using blocks for either tires and wheels or, the jacks, is also a debate. Most folks that want good stability and, know how leveling with jacks only will effect frame and body elements, will use ramps or blocks to drive up on, then, will use added blocks under the jacks so the jacks do not have an extended travel to help fine tune the leveling and, make things as stable as possible.

But, that involves just a tiny amount of WORK and many don't have that kind of energy. Those plastic leggo type blocks seem to have quite a following. I have a set that I primarily use for step support. I've got a small lumber yard I carry for leveling. This is all a matter of choice and, how much one puts into a good, stable platform when you're done leveling. Good luck.
Scott

Pads are a good idea for hydraulic levelers.

I use the yellow/orange leveling blocks under my jacks. I carry about a dozen. I almost always use them under my jacks, on any surface. Just helps spread the weight...especially if you're on soft ground. But I've seen divots on asphalt and I've seen a jack foot get "glued" to asphalt on a really hot day (had to use a crowbar!) Also I think it's just courteous to RV parks to use them so there will hopefully be no problems. If I'm way off level, I put several under the place that is really low so I don't have to extend that jack to the max.

As to your last question...different coaches, different instructions. Read your manual. On my coach, it instructs to level before extending the slides...then bring in the slides before retracting the jacks.