new to class c

DaCrema wrote:
I do not know of a RV that uses the same locking system for the cab and the house doors. That is a automotive issue that would be difficult to surmount. Though I agree it would be a nice feature.

The Winnebago View I use to have had that feature. Lock the cab and it locked the camper door also. Walk back to the rig and press the key fob once it unlocked the drivers door and hit it a second time and it unlocked the passenger door plus the camper door.

I do not know of a RV that uses the same locking system for the cab and the house doors. That is a automotive issue that would be difficult to surmount. Though I agree it would be a nice feature.

Defiantly go to the Lazy Daze Owners group.

When posting questions about the generator use a cell phone camera to take a pic of the generator face (the green door). That door should come off so you can access the generator for most most of the maintenance work.

The house batteries on a Laze Daze are separate from the cab. The electric door locks belong to the cab's (Ford) electrical system. There should be plenty of room to work on the cab's battery under the hood. If the house battery system is still stock Lazy Daze setup (no changes over the years) the two 6v batteries should be on a drawer that slides out for easier access. Some people remove the drawer so they can add the next size up 6v batteries. My rig was well cared for by the previous owner, but in the short time I owned the rig the drawer's latches started sticking.

Re the box on the underside. I have no clue with out pictures.

Your generator is a different model/family than mine, so the comments about the location of the starter may not apply. I would still expect that theres some access panel in the green case you can see, though I'm not familiar at all with your particular model so I might be mistaken.

My generator starter uses somewhere in the general vicinity of 100A when cranking, obviously a little more for the first second when it's having to overcome the inertia of the engine not rotating at all. Measuring voltages while cranking at various places will tell you if and where the voltage may be dropping.

maybe it's a form of laziness. all my other cars you just push a button and it locks all the doors, or unlocks them as you walk up instead of walking around the vehicle. manual keys are still intact, plus it connects with the alarm system. one button and you know you are secure.

I don't understand your need for remote actuating doors. I would not trust any electro-mechanically operated door lock/opening system unless I could unlock manually with a key as an alternative.

thanks for the reply. the generator is a onan model bge-fa/26100p. it may be the house batteries that are low. I had it on the charger for several hours then hooked up to the shore power over night. rv is parked for a tailgate party this evening, so I don't have access to it for a while. I'll try pulling the battery leads cleaning them, assuming I can get a wrench on them, it's pretty tight in there. any idea how many amps it takes to start the thing? I've got a 50amp charger/starter that could be hooked up directly if that might work.

I already know the brakes and tires need replacement. researching on what to put on there and who can do it. my normal auto place doesn't have facilities to jack up an rv. I'll have them check the brake lines. pre purchase inspection showed brake fluid flush is needed, but since the rotors are trashed, I think that's a given anyways.

not having remote actuating doors is driving me nuts. I was looking at these if anyone has tried them http://www.trimarkcorp.com/en/zPlatform.aspx?platformid=282&categoryid=89
supposedly they can be electrically activated.

If your tires are older than 5 years old by imprinted date codes, they should be inspected for side-wall cracks and probably need replacement for safety, your safety and the underside tanks, wiring and propane lines of your rig.
The house and starting battery(s) probably need replacing from sitting discharged. Brakes and engine cooling system need service/repairs for safety and reliability. Your entire 12 volt dc and 110volt ac system need checking including operation of your converter charger and fresh water pump/plumbing including all faucets. Try starting generator with a good fully charged house battery and use the start switch on the generator itself. Sounds like the generator starter mechanism is stuck and increased voltage might unstick it.
There is a way to turn over the generator manually to free it for starting but I forget how. Make sure the generator oil level is ok. I would not attempt to drop and remove the generator myself and would pay the big bucks to have the generator serviced/repaired as needed. Removal for diagnosis and repair costs over $300 alone.

photobug wrote:
Just picked up a well used class c lazy daze. last owner had it

sitting in a storage yard for several years

, so it's got a few issues. ...

When an RV or any vehicle sits for any length of time the braking system and exhaust takes the biggest hit from rust.

Replace the brakes AND Replace both of the front rubber brake lines and have the brake calipers checked out thoroughly before hitting the road.

Important to replace the front brake lines because they will look just fine on the outside but they collapse on the inside leaving you with no brakes. Don't ask me how I know that. :(

Consider joining the Lazy Daze Owners Forum, lazydazeowners.com and posting your questions in the Technical Forum. Be prepared to provide details on the year, model, and floor plan of your LD.

If you can't get an answer there (unlikely), call the factory 909-627-1219.

Good Luck

What generator model is it? Very common is the Onan KY ("KY" is in the model number; the name on the outside has changed once or twice, but MicroQuiet 4000 is one of them). On this generator, the side of the green outer case of the generator proper comes off with a couple of cams to give access to many bits of the generator. Unfortunately, this does not include the starter, which requires removal of the outer shell to get at (and hence removing the generator from the RV in most cases).

At least in my motorhome, the generator is mounted to a sub-frame with a couple bolts at each corner. Dropping it is conceptually pretty straightforward: disconnect the wires and fuel line, hold it up with a floor jack or whatever, remove the bolts, and lower the jack. I'd suggest checking the clearance underneath with a tape measure first as it may be necessary to park the RV on ramps or otherwise block it up to have enough clearance under the skirting to pull the generator out.

Before going through all that work, I'd suggest verifying that the 12V power and ground connections are all good and tight and that there is sufficient voltage when it's cranking. A poor connection (causing inadequate voltage) will prevent cranking.

The box by the differential sounds to me like it may be a spare tire carrier. If it is, there should be some sort of a crank connection (often with a bolt head like end under some sort of a cover) that will raise and lower the cable.

I haven't heard of anybody attaching power locks to the entry door. I'm not sure how well it would work with the typical RV door latches; certainly they aren't designed with that feature in mind.

I hope you do realize that an analog TV antenna is the same as a digital TV antenna. The frequency ranges used for TV broadcasts have not changed. You just need a digital tuner to receive the digital broadcasts. (At the RF level, all the signals are analog, after all.)