New to RVing - Help on what to look for in old RV

I would not pay for an inspection, unless it was from someone I knew personally. This for the reasons given by others.

Considering you are gutting the RV, I think most of the inspection will be discarded anyway. I think you would do best getting a pile of good pictures from the seller, and inspect the pictures.

As for the inspection, in this case, no, I don't think it's worth it. And if they miss anything, they're not liable anyways. I paid for an inspection one time because the RV was a long ways away. The inspector missed several things that were easily evident.

Bill

As others have said, leaks.
No matter what line they give you about it being fixed or what ever, there are plenty of nice RV's out there that haven't leaked.

Inspect tires for sidewall cracks and any bulges. RV tires can become unsafe after 5-7 years from just sitting parked. Service entire brake system including flushing of old brake fluid and replacement of front flexible brake lines. Service engine cooling system including fan clutch radiator, water pump and all belts and hoses. Service roof AC, dash AC, furnace, fresh water pump, awning, and plumbing. Replace house batteries, converter/charger and associated relays and switches as needed for reliable 12 volt DC power. Check entire exterior lighting system. Re-seal roof vents, replace vent covers. Replace/repair window blinds. Test and service RV generator, should be able to run roof AC and microwave simultaneously. Replace awning fabric if needed. Try not to spend so much on old rig that you feel "stuck with it".

thanks for the suggestions, appreciate it. With the 8k price point and it being what it is would you pay for an inspection by a RV shop? I've been quoted $300 for an inspection of everything but the engine.

A dry RV is a viable RV. Look for leaks and check the roof to make sure the rubber is good. If the white is all worn away the material is near the end of it's life. A replacement roof can be expensive.

Since you are gutting the interior and starting over, I agree with the other comments that mold inside the walls and rotten structural wood will be your primary focus. Do as previously suggested. The signs to watch for are interior water stains (especially in the front over-head cab) and the smell of mold. Stand on the floor around plumbing fixtures and bounce yourself a little to see if the floor is soft. Replacing or repairing a rotten floor will be difficult. If your rehab includes removing the interior wall board, that would be a good thing so you can kill any mold, replace rotten studs and ceiling rafters, update the wiring, and insulate better. Nobody will insulate as good as you. I personally would insulate using 1" foam board. Cut to a compression fit and touch-up voids with spray foam. That will yield best insulation results.

Have to agree with Trackrig. Take a flashlight and look in every cabinet and cubbyhole for any signs of water intrusion, mold, or mildew. If you find any the chance of wood rot goes up immediately. I know you said you assumed you would have to gut and rebuild the unit based on age, don't assume that, you could well find a unit still watertight.
Appliances are expensive, while most folks hope to get by, expect to have to eventually change them, at 22 years old, they are due for updates as they break down, and unless their failures are very minor, I would replace rather than repair.

The main thing is roof or plumbing leaks that rotted out something such as the roof or walls. Then the tires. If they're over five years old, by the time you done remodeling, they'll need replacing. I'd just figure on changing batteries and tires.

You've got the hot water heater and battery charger, but as old as the originals are, you'd be better off installing updated ones.

Bill