Forum Discussion
Malakie
Sep 16, 2014Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,
The light issue is why I used the insulbright covers and industrial velcro. Very few folks enjoy living in a cave. I even cover the entry door at night.
You are underestimating the heat loss. Once the true cold hits with some wind you may understand what I am talking about.
Have you done anything about the fridge?
Are your waste tanks and valves enclosed and heated?
How big is your generator? How long will it run on a full tank?
Being from Wisconsin, trust me when I am saying I am not underestimating the heat loss nor how cold it gets...not to mention the snow load itself... and that is why I asked for suggestions.
I do not need to heat this thing to 80 degrees. 68 is comfortably fine. And having been trained in artic survival in the military, I am very familiar with what cold can and will do to parts and pieces, whether mechanical or human.
I don't expect I can insulate this thing to the point a regular house can be. However I am also not the first person to do a winter bug in... many others have and with the proper planning, weathered it just fine.
What about the fridge? The thing has ventilation which has insulation around it in the back vent space. I can open or close that area as needed to let in or keep out colder air. I did make sure that the seal from that vent space to the internal is sealed though regardless.
Waste tanks are open and will be open. There is no reason they cannot be. If I close them that works too since they are right under the center line floor which will remain above freezing. And with the undercarriage not only insulated heavily but also closed off from outside direct airflow with 3 inch pink insulation board, I don't think that is going to be an issue. If I do have any issues where I think something is sticking from cold, I can easily run some hot water down the thing to break it up.
The internal Genset is a 5500 which puts out 40 amps.. but again as I mentioned, most of our power is coming from solar and wind to batteries and inverters with a high end regulator. The genset only kicks in when batteries drop below 25% charge if there is no sun or wind.
We also have a back up external generator that is a 3500 watt unit with 5200 boost and has a built in 30amp RV port just in case. Both units run on regular gasoline and with the 50 gallon tank on this RV, can run a long time. When we first got the RV and before I did any work on the solar and wind stuff I set up, we ran solely on generator. The external has a 3 gallon tank and it would run for about 22 hours when we were running the AC constant and about 30 hours when we did not use the AC. So in regard to that, I am not worried. I also have a tank in the back of my truck that can carry upwards of another 40 gallons total as well.
Since this is first time learning experience, I FULLY expect I will spend a bit more money this time around on propane, possibly even gasoline depending on how well the solar/wind system continues to function.
Right now, I am in full insulation mode using an expanding foam insulation that I am spraying in open areas, in the walls and any other areas that are directly on the external walls like compartments and so forth. It has already made a huge difference in fact.. As mentioned this entire week it has been in the upper 30's every night.. from the first day where the heat ran quite a bit to tonight, major difference. In fact the heat has only kicked on once in the last 6 hours and we only have one ceramic heat unit running instead of two like the other nights. Batteries are showing 87% charge right now and will be around 50% or so by morning when the sun comes up.
Again, I am fully realizing what I am headed into.. which is why I am asking for suggestions all around.. and I have planned to let everyone know how it all goes as we head into this so others can hear about what works and what does not as well...
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