Forum Discussion

charlessfolly's avatar
Sep 23, 2014

newer absorption fridge

From the owners manual printed in 2011 for a Domestic RM1320 4-door 12cu ft refrigerator:
1)"To ensure proper leveling,the vehicle needs to be comfortable to live in(no noticeable sloping of floor or walls)."
2)"When the vehicle is moving ,the leveling is not critical,as the rolling and pitching movement of the vehicle will pass to either side of level,keeping the liquid ammonia from accumulating in the evaporator tubing."
3)"The first automatic defrost reduction cooling unit cycle begins 60 hours after turning on the refrigerator,and will last approximately 120 minutes.(repeats every 48hours)"
4)"When the refrigerator's temporary gas lockout is connected,the LP gas operation will automatically be locked out for a period of 15 minutes when the engine is switched off.This will prevent LP gas operation e.g. when stopping at a refueling station."
5)"The automatic Low Ambient Control(LAC) ensures trouble-free operation in low ambient temperatures (e.g.below 50°F)."
6)"The refrigerator is equipped with a heater tape wrapped around the water valve and outlet water tube.During cold weather operation below 32°/0°C the automatic temperature switch will turn the heater tape on automatically.
Interesting info on leveling and traveling with fridge running.Automatic defrost-who knew?The last two points imply below freezing operation-good news for fulltimers.
I'd like to know if this is new to the industry or am I really that far out of date on recent rv technology?
  • You need to add to your list of 3 degrees max side to side level and 6 max front to back as per Domestic when parked. Other than that they have really changed.
  • Jeez, do people run out and shut their fridge off every time they climb a hill while driving? Not? Some 5th wheels have AC mounted on highly sloped roofs from the factory and seem to work fine. No diff than fridge. Ran my fridge in 5th wheel on steep driveway when in storage for 5 years with no issues.
  • This is not new information. As a matter of fact, in hot weather, I turned my Norcold off every morning to eliminate the defrost cycle. The defrost cycle would heat the interior of the refer to defrost the rear fins. The problem, was the darn Norcold would not recover. I only had frost issues once and found it more productive to heat the fins quickly with a blow dryer and then close the door.
  • dezolen wrote:
    Jeez, do people run out and shut their fridge off every time they climb a hill while driving? Not? Some 5th wheels have AC mounted on highly sloped roofs from the factory and seem to work fine. No diff than fridge. Ran my fridge in 5th wheel on steep driveway when in storage for 5 years with no issues.


    There is a BIG difference.
    A/C Units have compressors...RV absorption fridges do NOT.
    They rely on 'gravitational flow' which can be disrupted when operating off-level when stationary.
    While in transit....not a concern (See #2 above)

    As for running your fridge off level while in storage and no issues......bet the current owner isn't saying that.
    Off level operation inhibits proper gravity flow of coolant mixture (Ammonia, hydrogen, water and sodium chromate---anti-rust inhibitor)
    The rust inhibitor overheats and crystallizes. When it crystallizes it attaches to the inside of tubing. This plaque causes more issues with flow, more overheating, more build up which results in blockage and that leads to insufficient cooling until cooling unit stops working.

    Off level stationary operation causes damage which is accumulative and permanent.
    You did cause permanent damage...even if you were unaware of it at the time. You just got rid of RV before it became apparent
  • If I may make a suggestion about item #6:

    "The refrigerator is equipped with a heater tape wrapped around the water valve and outlet water tube.During cold weather operation below 32°/0°C the automatic temperature switch will turn the heater tape on automatically."


    If this water line is plastic flexible tubing and you winterize your water system and remove the water out of the ice maker line, I suggest you find out how to disconnect the tubing heater. The heat applied to a line without water in it deteriorates the tubing. We had ours fail just outside of the 3 year point as we commonly used the rig during the cold months with the ice maker line shut off.

    If they are using copper tubing for this line, there should be no worries.

    ~Rick
  • DSDP Don wrote:
    This is not new information. As a matter of fact, in hot weather, I turned my Norcold off every morning to eliminate the defrost cycle. The defrost cycle would heat the interior of the refer to defrost the rear fins. The problem, was the darn Norcold would not recover. I only had frost issues once and found it more productive to heat the fins quickly with a blow dryer and then close the door.


    Unless you have the 2100 series Norcold, there is NO defrost heater on the other models(1200/1210 and some 8 foot models). The 2100 series is rarely used except on hi line models. The defrost cycle on the other Norcolds is just a shut down of cooling every 48 to 54 hours for about 2 hours. This allows the evap finds to thaw out any ice. This does NOT defrost the freezer. Doug
  • charlessfolly wrote:
    From the owners manual printed in 2011 for a Domestic RM1320 4-door 12cu ft refrigerator:
    1)"To ensure proper leveling,the vehicle needs to be comfortable to live in(no noticeable sloping of floor or walls)."
    2)"When the vehicle is moving ,the leveling is not critical,as the rolling and pitching movement of the vehicle will pass to either side of level,keeping the liquid ammonia from accumulating in the evaporator tubing."
    3)"The first automatic defrost reduction cooling unit cycle begins 60 hours after turning on the refrigerator,and will last approximately 120 minutes.(repeats every 48hours)"
    4)"When the refrigerator's temporary gas lockout is connected,the LP gas operation will automatically be locked out for a period of 15 minutes when the engine is switched off.This will prevent LP gas operation e.g. when stopping at a refueling station."
    5)"The automatic Low Ambient Control(LAC) ensures trouble-free operation in low ambient temperatures (e.g.below 50°F)."
    6)"The refrigerator is equipped with a heater tape wrapped around the water valve and outlet water tube.During cold weather operation below 32°/0°C the automatic temperature switch will turn the heater tape on automatically.
    Interesting info on leveling and traveling with fridge running.Automatic defrost-who knew?The last two points imply below freezing operation-good news for fulltimers.
    I'd like to know if this is new to the industry or am I really that far out of date on recent rv technology?


    This is ONLY on your specific model refer except the heat tape system on the icemaker. The heat tape for Dometic Icemakers has been standard for years and is the cause of crystalizing the plastic water line and then leaking. The ambient is on a few select models also. I like it when a RV'er actually READS his operators manual. Amazing what good info you can get by doing that. Doug
  • When the Norcolds are just barely hanging on, especially when it's hot out, the defrost cycle is enough to push them over the edge. If it occurs during the heat of the day, it never catches up. I never mentioned defrosting the freezer. The freezer's do okay, it's the refer that struggles. Keeping my Norcold cold in hot weather was a constant job and very aggravating.
  • DSDP Don wrote:
    When the Norcolds are just barely hanging on, especially when it's hot out, the defrost cycle is enough to push them over the edge. If it occurs during the heat of the day, it never catches up. I never mentioned defrosting the freezer. The freezer's do okay, it's the refer that struggles. Keeping my Norcold cold in hot weather was a constant job and very aggravating.

    Doug.....I respect your posts and you always have good information, but I find you defend Norcold like you own stock in them. If it was just an occasional unit going bad, than the bad rap wouldn't be justified. The 1200's are just a terrible design as evidenced by all the issues and the settling of the Class Action Lawsuit.


    I "defend" them because they have MILLIONS of 1200's out there and are the most popular 4 door made and used for the past 20 years. If you only had one model of Ford out there and there were millions in use, the malfunctions would seem large. I would have NO problem owning a 1200 or having any of my friends own 1200 models(some of my friends do have them). People seem to think they should last forever. I see very few cooling unit problems due to the NO CO operation that shuts down the refer if unlevel or overheats. The recall address's the overheating that can occur when you DO have a leaker. When you see Norcold bashing, remember that nobody posts anything when they have NO problems. Also, after a few years, we are seeing Amish CU problems happening, even they can have problems. It just takes a few years for some problems to come up. I have no problem with the Amish design CU's, but they can have problems also. Doug
  • after reading this, I'm glad mine died and replaced it with a residential unit, only draws 98 watts