non- working Dometic fridge

Handbasket wrote:
The typical small 3-way reefer used in class B's before about 2000 does not use 12V when working on propane. I've owned 2, and worked on another. They have a manual 'clicker' ignition, and use either a flame window or a needle gauge to indicate that they're lit. They're completely independent of 12V power, other than using it when set to 12V operation (heating element only).

Jim, "Laughing stock: cattle with a sense of humor."

I wish the newer ones had the manual, "clicker" override.

X2

The typical small 3-way reefer used in class B's before about 2000 does not use 12V when working on propane. I've owned 2, and worked on another. They have a manual 'clicker' ignition, and use either a flame window or a needle gauge to indicate that they're lit. They're completely independent of 12V power, other than using it when set to 12V operation (heating element only).

Jim, "Laughing stock: cattle with a sense of humor."

Need good 12V DC power
Open the outside compartment
Clean it out with a shop vacuum
Check that it is plugged into the 110V outlet
Inspect for any signs of leaking (yellow powder/residue)
Level the RV.......fridge operating off level WILL damage it. Flow is disrupted/overheats/creates blockage in cooling unit)

Valve in propane
Light off stove top burners on high to establish propane flow/allow LP regulator to function. With burners lit and steady turn fridge ON
Select 'gas'
If fridge temp control is adjustable turn it to coolest setting
Wait 24 hrs and check that freezer is 0-10*F and food section is 35-40*F

The not working on electric could be a bad heat element, bad fuse.

Taking fridge out, turning it upside down is a band-aid fix to a clogged/blocked cooling unit. It will NOT cure the problem. IF cooling unit has blockage it is permanent!

Find out IF it cools.

Why not try it on propane first to see if it works. If it does then you can diagnose the electric problem without removing the frig.

How would you do what safely?