Non-level campsites Class A

willald wrote:


Yeah, I quit using the plastic blocks when we got the motorhome. Those plastic one work OK for towable RVs, but don’t trust them to handle the weight of a class A.

Good idea on the carriage bolts. I just screwed all 3 on mine together somewhat permanent, with long wood screws.

The blocks I built where for Dad's trailer. He had made some (I re-used the boards) He had laid out the holes, drove inch long screws drove halfway in and then holes for the heads to fit in. They bothered me because I know boards split, and wood screws, with their points, can flatten a tire. The carriage bolts, if split out of wood will have a round head on 1 end, and a nut on the other. If it does go thru a tire, tire is ruined, but the ends are large enough not likely to stick in tread.
If you decide to replace your screws with bolts, you might want to countersink the nuts into the bottom of boards, if you use them on pavement. Will slide, or damage pavement (All-thread and nuts much cheaper than bolts long enough to reach thru 3 2bys) Another idea would be sandwich rubber belt (Mud flap?) between the bottom 2 layers, with a tongue sticking out long enough to be under the tire before it hits the ramp. This would make sure they did not slide as you pull on.
For a MH, would want shorter boards, because the top board doesn't need to be long enough for tires on 2 axles. But with a trailer you only need 1 ramp, because only need to put 1 side on ramp. MH, OTOH, might need to ramp 3 corners to 3 different heights.
My single axle trailer is light enough for plastic. The 30 I carry are lighter, and easier to pack then the lumber. And I often use them to level other things around the site.