norcold 1200LRIM

Thanks to all who replied. While staying at the Rv park in denver, nc a new Tiffin MH decided when he arrived there, the tiffin would just back up and put the trailer hitch through my front end cap and knock the fog light out and crack the bumper area all up. Well back to the shop again and while there I will have the shop fix the fridge again.

Thanks to doug rainer , I didnt get to the level you spoke of. I did disconnect thermistor while running for 4 hrs and no change to temp. That's where I stopped.

I,ll post what they find at the shop , when I find out from the shop. Thanks again to all.

1. Fin temp will be 10 degrees COLDER than the refer temp. That means your lower temp is way off almost 20 degrees.
2. The ONLY way to test at this point is to hot wire both 120 elements for 24 hours. Put a glass of water in the lower refer, run hot wired for 24 hours and see what happens.
3. IF the refer does NOT cool to below 38 degrees you have a inadequately sealed Cooling Unit or a bad cooling unit OR just maybe your door seals are not tight. Also, MAKE SURE the evap drain tube is blocked off and make sure it has the black check valve in it. That check valve keeps the warm air from c0oming back up inside the refer
4. VERY long shot is your Thermister is bad. A BAD thermistor can ohm out to specs and still not work correctly. That is why you do the 24 hour hot wire to bypass all controls except the cooling fans.
5. Last, I know people like to bash the 1200 series. But the plain fact is this--THERE ARE MILLIONS OF THESE OUT THERE PERFORMING JUST FINE, ALL products will break down. YOU have NO reason to call Norcold names because you do NOT have a REAL Norcold product. You have an aftermarket Cooling unit.
6. The reason they replaced both boards is I am assuming you have the specific model serial number that required a updated Eyebrow/rear control as the original rear main module was no longer available, and Norcold supplies a complete kit for those specific models. Doug

You say the cooling unit was replaced, if your freezer section holding at "0" but the fresh food section isn't cooling down, it may be possible they didn't seal the cooling unit properly on the back, and/or failed to use thermal paste on the coils where they fit against the the back of the refrigerator.

Hopefully dougranier will see this post and be able to help with your problem

Best of luck and safe travels...

I put two squeral cage fans behind the unit blowing up and I had to turn the reffer down because I was frezzing things. Hope this helps. The regular fans just blow air around these blow the air up and really helped. Good luck

Yes they both run and I have a extra computer fan in the vent cover blowing up to roof vent. And eyebrow board show s all good readings , fin temp is off 47 degrees which is way high.

Do you hear the fans on the rear side running when it's very warm?

No yellow or green , no smell. Freezer is down to 0 degrees

Do you see any yellowish green stains in the back thru the outside access panel? If so, an ammonia leak and cooling unit needs to be replaced. Mine wouldn't get cold and had to replace the cooling unit to the tune of $2,100.00. I did not have a leak.