Norcold issue once again

I have a revision B recall box that went off today. Can't take it in for 2 weeks and then I suppose I'll get the revision E. Norcold, I hope you're saving your money. You'll be out of business at this rate. Seems more and more people are buying rigs with residential fridges in them. I know I will when the time comes. :M

Buy a home one. Depending on size, Home Depot or Costco have great deals. Then it will be good for 10 years. I have a special place in my heart for Norcolds and it ain't good!!LOL.

Doug does indeed know. His information comes from his professional training and knowledge gained from actually working on RVs. He does all of us a great service by sharing his expertise with us. Thanks Doug!!

lj2654 wrote:
Doug, Last year the recall box light came on steady, and they checked the frig out and just the box was bad. Now the box light is on again steady, sorry fore the wrong info before.....
shop replaced the box and thought that was all it was, then issues with it getting red light on again, now say the control board is the problem? Who knows!

Who Knows? I know as that is what I do for a living. The control box has NOTHING to do with the function of the Recall box. There are 2 ways the recall box is installed. It depends on the Model of the Rear main control module. The older units, the recall is installed BEFORE the 12 volt input to the Main control module. Newer units are wired to terminals inside the Main control module and IF you have that module, you will get the Li-OP display on the inside optical display. Now, as I stated, you ALWAYS replace the Thermocoupler sensor AND the Recall box as a set. If you did not get the Li-OP code, you have the older which has NO connection with the module board. You may have a defective cooling unit and the recall is just doing its job. Sometimes you cannot see the yellow residue as it is inside the burner flue area if you have a leaker. What I would be doing if I had the unit, I would hot wire the 2 120 elements for 24 hours and make sure the rear cooling fans are on or install an extra fan blowing up if they will not come on. If the rear cooling fans do not come on, THAT is part of your problem. The fans are required to operate on a 1200. Doug

Doug, Last year the recall box light came on steady, and they checked the frig out and just the box was bad. Now the box light is on again steady, sorry fore the wrong info before.....
shop replaced the box and thought that was all it was, then issues with it getting red light on again, now say the control board is the problem? Who knows!

lj2654 wrote:
Well, here we go again! Norcold 1200LRIM frig on the blink again. Cooling unit replaced in February 2011.

Recall box installed at that time. Recall overheat sensor failed summer of 2013 and replaced under warranty with Norcold revision "E"!

Now I have mh in shop for blinking light on frig again, they changed the overheat temp sensor and running frig today, said it is working correctly. Called later today and said failed, think control board is bad, troubleshooting it tomorrow.

When is enough enough...and just put a residential one in...already out $2000 for the cooling unit 2 1/2 years ago now.....?

You said the LED on the recall box is "blinking"? I have NEVER seen the recall box LED blink. It is either ON(failed) or OFF. You do NOT replace just the Overheat sensor, you replace the complete kit with new recall box. Hopefully they did replace the complete kit not just the sensor. IF failed again at the shop, then the odds are you have either a failed cooling unit(leaker) or the ventilation is blocked. The normal operating temp of the refer is about 350 degrees. The Overheat sensor does not trip until over 700 degrees. So, if NEW recall kit installed and the new kit tripped, the system DID ITS JOB. It is not a false trip. Doug

Our Norcold 1200LRIM lasted for 12 years, when it died, replaced the cooling unit with one of those Amish built units and so far it's working great, still using the original circuit board.

I just replaced my board about two weeks ago. The best price I found, was RV Cooling warehouse, in Memphis. It was 195. shipped, and I got it in pa, in 3 days. This was a Dinosaur board, which looked to be much better quality, than the original. This fixed problem. My problem was that it would not stay lit on Lp. I first replaced the flame sparker/Sensor, but this did not help, so the next step was the board, and this did take care of it. I also just last week took this in for the recall, as this was never taken in by the last owner. It seems to be doing ok now. The board is fairly easy to get at at least in my Residency by mhc. Did you replace your coils with the amish unit? I am only asking because I understand that many folks, that have this 1200, have done so. And I guess if mine should spring a leak, that would be an option for me, but really hope it just keeps on a chug-in. Good luck Geo

In over 40 yrs. of RVs with absorption fridges I have never had one fail.

Think the biggest problem with 'newer' models is the attempts at making an RV absorption fridge all fancy with bells and whistles like a residential fridge.

Then toss in higher costs for materials (steel, chemicals etc.) and accountants get involved so corners are cut to meet manufacturing budgets. Thinner tubing, more lower quality electronics etc.

I like a 'simple' RV fridge......forget all the panel readouts, diagnostic screens, error codes monitoring/recording.
YETI cooler is looking better and better.

I've had 5 refrigerators go out in my 3 RV's all within 4 years of each other. So I went to walmart and bought a large "dorm" style fridge with a freezer and put it in all 3 coaches. No problems. Nope, it doesn't work on propane, but we do have inverters for the 12V. But they were $150 each and work great.

Residential fridges have the same results and last a long time :)