Norcold refrigerator for coach

Gjac is on the right track! Did the OP try the "dollar Bill Test" on the door seals?
I just purchased an 07 with the Norcold side by side. Cooluing unit was toast so I pulled the trigger & went with a NEW Amish built cooling unit. It's a GREAT fridge when working 100%. I did uncover some issues though...

I had to replace the double solenoid valves on the backside. My fridge has the Icemaker AND the in door water despenser. Water despenser was not woking & found it to be the solenoid. Note that both icemaker & water despenser solenod on the same assembly. The ice maker solenoid is 120VAC & the drink despenser solenoid is 12VDC so your not going to find it at your local appliance store.

Fridge has two outlets, One for the cooling unit & one for the icemaker.

My coach has two outlets, shore power & inverter. I plugged the icemaker on inverter side & the cooling unit heaters on the shore power side.

Once I replaced the solenoid shes back to 100% functional.

I did also spot a broken wire on the seal/flap that seals between the doors! I got up real close & discovered that in the middle of that flapper seal is a 3 prong plug two whites & a green wire. Green wire broke at the terminal. I was able to pull the pin using a pin extractor & repaired. I think it "might" be some type of heater to keep frost from forming?

Other than bad cooling unit not a bad fridge. I just cant go residential yet because we boondock & I have not got any panels (yet) LOL! (that's another thread).

My refer is much older but when I did the dollar bill test I found that the lower corner had a gap( no resistance with the bill). I removed the door latch and filled about .050 off the back side of the latch. This caused the door to close tighter and removed the gap.

There are loads of old fridges that you might be able to get parts off with all the residential conversions.

the coach is a 2008 HR

How old is the refer? Doug

Several years ago I had the same problem. I took a thin piece of white plastic cut (from something forgot what) and glued it onto the the surface of the switch that is in the top of the opening of the refrigerator box. After several unsuccessfull fixes buy various rv service centers it worked like a charm.

Are you sure there is nothing tall in the top bin of the door that is hitting the inside top of the fridge, or something on the shelves that the the door bins press against when you try to close the doors? That was always the source of my beeping.

I experienced a similar issue with my NoCold fridge, so I used a block and pry bar to bend the bottom hinges up just a tad. This has worked for me over the winter. I probably could have used shims under the door where it rides on the hinge put this seemed easier.