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mgrovesjai's avatar
mgrovesjai
Explorer
Jul 25, 2014

Oil drain plug location C-12

I crawled beneath my 1999 Beaver Marquis to find what type of tool I needed to get the oil drain plug out, and I saw two possible plugs on the pan on the same side as the oil filter (where I am assuming the drain plug is - perhaps I am wrong). One looked like you could use a square 1/2in socket drive, the other was a hex shape and quite large - maybe 1.25" or perhaps larger. The hex plug was the lowest on the pan, so I am guessing that's the one I want, unless there is another compartment beneath the oil pan. I don't want to undo one of these and get anything other than motor oil out of it. :) Anyone with experience with this engine that can help me here?
Class A
  • mgrovesjai's avatar
    mgrovesjai
    Explorer
    Jul 27, 2014
    bshpilot wrote:
    as PKennedy says - install a FUMOTO Valve on the drain pan (Ive had one on my f350 diesel for over 8 years now & love it)....then you can stop the flow anytime you want !

    its a lot less messy too & you don't need to search for a wrench to pull the drain plug.
    our MBE4000 / DD13 takes 42 quarts (10.5g)...i just drain it into some 5 gallon jugs & switch jugs when they get full.

    these valves don't open by accident or bumping ! you can install an optional hose clip/ring (sold with the valve) to prevent tampering.





    this thread seems to be dropping posts after these pictures were posted so this is a test to see if this post will post.
  • mgrovesjai's avatar
    mgrovesjai
    Explorer
    Jul 26, 2014
    I do already have the FUMOTO plug T205 for this sized CAT engine, but there is a question as to whether I may need an extension piece (I do for the one I purchased for the 10K generator). I don't think I need one though for either of these drains I see as they appear rather flush. I may order one just in case because being without one would be a killer, but sending it back, not a bad deal.
  • mgrovesjai's avatar
    mgrovesjai
    Explorer
    Jul 26, 2014
    randallb wrote:
    Due to the large volume of oil in one of these engines 2 drain pan cycles are usually needed. Some people remove the top drain plug for the first pan full, reinstall it and then remove the lower plug for the second pan full. On my Cummins I used a small roller mop bucket and a conventional oil drain pan. It could get a bit messy switching pans. The 2 drain plugs make the job a bit neater.
    Randy


    I hadn't thought of that, so I purchased a rather large (53quart) drain pan, but that's a good idea doing one at a time. I've also purchased the FUMOTO valve, so I am ready to make the next change easier than this one. I think I have everything I need except knowledge of the plug location but I imagine its simply the lowest on the pan, since I am assuming this is the entire oil pan assembly and there's not some other tank - never heard of such a thing, but I am not CAT literate as I am just beginning to get a handle on doing maintenance myself.
  • bshpilot's avatar
    bshpilot
    Explorer
    Jul 26, 2014
    as PKennedy says - install a FUMOTO Valve on the drain pan (Ive had one on my f350 diesel for over 8 years now & love it)....then you can stop the flow anytime you want !

    its a lot less messy too & you don't need to search for a wrench to pull the drain plug.
    our MBE4000 / DD13 takes 42 quarts (10.5g)...i just drain it into some 5 gallon jugs & switch jugs when they get full.

    these valves don't open by accident or bumping ! you can install an optional hose clip/ring (sold with the valve) to prevent tampering.



  • P_Kennedy's avatar
    P_Kennedy
    Explorer
    Jul 26, 2014
    Thus the advantage of the Fomoto valve when the pan gets full shut the valve and go empty the bucket. If it is the aluminum cast oil pan be careful of the torque putting in the plug or the valve the threads in the pan can be stripped fairly easy. I think the last one I bought was a cool $1000 but that was beating it up in the bush on my tractor.
  • randallb's avatar
    randallb
    Explorer
    Jul 26, 2014
    Due to the large volume of oil in one of these engines 2 drain pan cycles are usually needed. Some people remove the top drain plug for the first pan full, reinstall it and then remove the lower plug for the second pan full. On my Cummins I used a small roller mop bucket and a conventional oil drain pan. It could get a bit messy switching pans. The 2 drain plugs make the job a bit neater.
    Randy
  • mgrovesjai's avatar
    mgrovesjai
    Explorer
    Jul 26, 2014
    I don't really know what its made of - remember, I can't even tell which plug is which but I guess they both go to the oil pan so yes, I can pull the bottom one and pull the top. I want to put a FUMOTA drain on it, so I guess obviously the lower is the one to go with.
  • P_Kennedy's avatar
    P_Kennedy
    Explorer
    Jul 26, 2014
    Is that the cast aluminum oil pan? It should drain from the bottom plug, is it possible the plugs were switched? Same size and threads. The pan heaters were usually above the plug to allow more oil around the element.
  • mgrovesjai's avatar
    mgrovesjai
    Explorer
    Jul 26, 2014
    The hex plug is below the 1/2" square plug, and it appears to be where oil dripped from. In other words the 1/2 square plug looks cleaner. In fact the first time I looked I didn't notice the lower hex plug because it was blackened.
  • P_Kennedy's avatar
    P_Kennedy
    Explorer
    Jul 26, 2014
    Look closely at the 1/2" square plug and you will probably see a wear mark from doing oil changes. The hex plug above it was used for an oil pan heater so you could change the oil without pulling the heater. In some applications this was also used for an auxiliary return line.

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