Forum Discussion
Dutch_12078
May 24, 2016Explorer III
On edit: Obviously Bill and I are following pretty much the same diagnosis path, albeit from slightly different angles. Bill just types faster... ;)
The amp assembly is in the batwing head on the roof. The best way to check for power to it is to unhook the coax at the batwing, and use a multi-meter to check for 12 volts DC at the coax connector with the switch turned on. Be very careful not to short the conductors or it will blow a fuse that's sometimes difficult to find. If the 12 volts is not present, while you're still on the roof, disconnect the coax at the fitting where it passes through the roof to the inside. Connect a known good length of coax there, and check again. If you now have power on the meter, you'll know that the short coax to the batwing head needs replacing. If there's still no voltage present, then try the same test at the antenna input to the switch box. Nothing there either? Time to buy a Sensar Pro combination power injector/signal meter/amplifier as a replacement...
The amp assembly is in the batwing head on the roof. The best way to check for power to it is to unhook the coax at the batwing, and use a multi-meter to check for 12 volts DC at the coax connector with the switch turned on. Be very careful not to short the conductors or it will blow a fuse that's sometimes difficult to find. If the 12 volts is not present, while you're still on the roof, disconnect the coax at the fitting where it passes through the roof to the inside. Connect a known good length of coax there, and check again. If you now have power on the meter, you'll know that the short coax to the batwing head needs replacing. If there's still no voltage present, then try the same test at the antenna input to the switch box. Nothing there either? Time to buy a Sensar Pro combination power injector/signal meter/amplifier as a replacement...
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