our fridge is colder on propane than AC Why?

Thanks for the help everyone. I'll get my grumpy old service guy to check out the 110 elements. I called him today and that's the first thing he said as well.

With all due respect to the expert RV tech's, the design engineers, the manufacturer rep's and the salesmen, and the absorption reefer gods, every RV fridge I've ever owned worked best on propane, pretty good on 120VAC, and not very well at all on 12VDC.

Were they all broken? If so then they were broken as designed. All I know is real-world experience and I don't have the time to fight a battle with every finicky fridge. I use the mode that works best and forget about the one that doesn't. On my current fridge, that means the 12v element is unplugged so I never accidentally try to use it. When parked I use LP, and when on the road I run the fridge off 120VAC with an inverter. I never have to worry about having an open flame in a gas station, or the flame being blown out.

:):)

2ndhom wrote:

timetraveler wrote:
Why don't poeople just answer the origonal poster and quit bickering and insulting eachother?

X2
:)

Haven't seen bickering or insulting. Someone asked a master RV tech a valid question. I viewed it as a valid question. I for one was curious too but D.T. provided a good answer.

dougrainer wrote:
The RV refers will operate the SAME on LP or 120. The BTU's supplied by both LP and 120 are almost identical in cooling capacity.
IF you have a refer that is operating better on LP than 120, you need to verify that the 120 element is indeed pulling the required amperage. What Brand and model do you have? Has anyone changed the 120 element since it was new(they may have installed a lower wattage unit than is required). What is the line voltage? LOW AC voltage will cause lower heat from the heat element. It is also possible the sleeve that the 120 element slides into has slightly separated from the burner flue tube which will cause a loss of cooling on 120. I see you have a Newmar Ventana. IF Newmar installed a Norcold 4 door or a Dometic side by side refer, one of the 2 heating elements may be bad. Doug

I recently listened to a rep from Norcold at a rally discuss how a RV refrigerator works. His presentation supports what Doug is saying. He didn’t discuss the electric operation a lot but he did say that the heat requirement is the same for either gas or electric operation. The proper heat band is narrow for both modes of operation and that gas is faster at reaching the proper temperature. He then talked about cleaning the gas burner as that appears to be the biggest problem with RV refrigerators.

My old RV had a three way refrigerator. I replaced the 12 volt heating element many times over the years.

You might try this. E-mail the manufacturer and ask for the proper operating temperature of the electric heating element or elements. Or perhaps it is available on line if you do a search. Then take an inferred thermometer and check the temperature of each element. According to the Norcold rep the heating section of their refrigerators should behind the access door to allow for easy service. Not all coach manufacturers follow their suggestions and some locate the access door away from the heating area (service area) of the refrigerator.

If the operating temperature of one or both of your elements is below that specified by the manufactures then follow Doug’s advice to find the problem.

Good Luck and Safe Travels.

JD

timetraveler wrote:
Why don't poeople just answer the origonal poster and quit bickering and insulting eachother?

X2
:)

Hi Doug,

Thanks for the information. I admit to repeating what others have said "on the boards", as far as cooling on the propane setting. I have removed the information that might be misleading. Thank you very much.

How does one check "the sleeves", in particular the 12 volt version. I know the 12 volt heater works as it draws 29 amps.

I do not intend to use the 12 volt side to cool the fridge down. But there are times when having it maintain would be very nice.

Thanks in advance.

dougrainer wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
Hi Doug,

Can that "sleeve" also apply the 12 volt section on a 3 way fridge? Mine worked fine initially on 12 volt--but now hardly cools at all. How does one check this out?

dougrainer wrote:
It is also possible the sleeve that the 120 element slides into has slightly separated from the burner flue tube which will cause a loss of cooling on 120. Doug

Yes, but a 12 volt heat element is NOT designed for cooling DOWN a refer, only for maintaining the existing temp while in transit. Doug

just to recap what everyone has said,,and from all I've read thru the yrs and experienced,,,could one safely say that the preferred brand of refridge would be the DOMETIC? I think that I will buy dometic rather than norcold from all I've read here especially

thanks for the info,,, says this learning almost rookie.

Our Norcold 1200 is about the same on either propane or electric so you might have one heating element malfunction. Easy and cheap so i'd just change them both.

Have had 12V,110 and propane units for over 35 years. Have always found the propane worked best in hot weather. Often found the hot weather made more people turn on their AC's and found a voltage drop in the 110. So less heat from the heating element. 12V for us has always been used when traveling as the batterys are kept up from the rig while running so a higher voltage.

When real hot we just use propane. Works for us..

pianotuna wrote:
Hi doug,

Then how do you account for the multiple reports of faster and better cooling using propane?

Because, there is NO WAY to really do a real test. people assume that because it is a FLAME, that it MUST cool better or faster. Kind of like people that think they have a handle on how good their fuel mileage is. Also, as with this poster, maybe they have a problem on the 120 side and just assume that it is normal. Also, they read and talk to non professional Rv'ers and take THEIR word for gospel. I have been in this business for 40 years.

Doug