Outdoor storage in very cold climate.

Just the opposite, We plan to use, but not inhabit, our RV all winter through weekend trips. Yes, live in GA but we get cold, too. Not a big fan of winterizing after each use (but a whole lot better than split pipes, fixtures, tanks, etc.). Removing wet foods is a good suggestion (tnx).

Could run a low level electric heater with critical areas exposed. Or, with lots of practice, get pretty good at winterizing each / every other week.

15-20F is about as cold as we get. Nightly 25F could be typical.

Any suggestions?

Best,
- bob

We live in a cold climate here. Not unusual to hit -20 and have it stay there for a couple of weeks in Feb. Combine that with an average of 24" of snow on the ground and let's just say the brass monkeys are looking for parts.

Lots of good advise about draining pipes, using RV antifreeze (make sure you use the plumber or RV stuff cause the auto type is toxic) and removing all frezable items from inside. This includes toothpaste, shampoo, cans of soup etc. You really should remove all food anyway as you want to make the rig as unattractive to rodents as possible.

Change your engine and genny oil just before the storage, check all other fluid levels, make sure your rad antifreeze is good to -40. Lube all grease fittings. Clean the outside to spotless and put about 5 extra pounds of air in each tire. Fill your gas tank to the brim and add stabilizer. Run the engine and gennie to get stabilized fuel into the carb and injectors.

We cover and I suffer no damage from it. Keeps the ice from freezing to the roof and sides. I take my batteries out, charge them and store them in a cool dry location (my garage). Cold starts in real cold weather are hard on the engine so needless to say no exercising of engines but no ill effects.

I too park on planks to keep my tires up off the ground.

I normally winterize mid-October and it stays parked until late April. Short season but worth the effort.

We live in WI and have very cold temps in the winter. Our MH is stored outside with a cover over it. We do charge our batteries periodically and fully winterize the water system. Drain your hot water heater and put it on by-pass. We drain all water and put pink solution in all lines and drains with a bit extra in the black and grey tanks. Make sure you have all your liquid items removed along with other foods, etc. We have 2 plastic bins to put all our items in and store it in the basement. We drive it onto wood planks since it is on gravel and also cover our wheels.

Mainly its about draining all the water out of the pipes. Also a good solar battery charger would be good for both the coach & house batts.

Above advice is good......one added thing. Take out ALL liquids out of the cupboards. Take it from me.......Niquil is harder than heck to get out of the cupboards after it freezes and breaks the bottle.......:(

You will need to fill water lines and p traps with RV antifreeze. If the batteries stay charged they should be fine. We keep ours plugged in all the time to keep batteries charged. We are in TN and have kept outside 2 winters without a problem. The weather is milder here and no real snow fall.
Good Luck!

Is this your 1st rv I n PA? You need to winterize the MH but batteries like any auto will be OK if kept charged. To winterize drain tanks & blow out lines with air & dump the rv anti freeze into all traps.Or you could suck that rv anti freeze into all your water lines. Which ever way you choose do a good job and you won't have any problems.