Over hang dragging

BillHoughton wrote:
Shocked the @#%$^%%^& out of me the first time I went up our driveway, in our then new-to-us RV. The driveway's fairly steep from the street, boy do those skid brackets drag! I thought I'd ruined the bodywork.

It's scary sounding, but I'm glad Winnebago put those brackets on; I just live with the sound when it happens.

Careful though. Those skids will grind and wear out quickly.

Shocked the @#%$^%%^& out of me the first time I went up our driveway, in our then new-to-us RV. The driveway's fairly steep from the street, boy do those skid brackets drag! I thought I'd ruined the bodywork.

It's scary sounding, but I'm glad Winnebago put those brackets on; I just live with the sound when it happens.

I have a 31rq and a sloped drive turning onto asphalt, if I angle too much I clip my right rear corner, so I got one of these http://www.ruralking.com/receiver-mount-protector-1-pk.html

since I was afraid to add the length of a bike carrier to the rig. works fine, less grinding than before as the roller not the hitch contacts the ground, but keep it greased.

Had the same issue with mine. Air bags helped but only 1/2 - 1" of so. My ultimate old RV cheap bush fix was installing a pair of castor wheels onto the skids. It was a trail and error affair that led to an ultimate solution. The trick is installing the wheels with as little clearance as possible below the skids. I set the castors only 1/2 inch below the skids making the loss of clearance negligible. Has worked wonders pulling in and out of my driveway where a large dip exists at the base of the apron due to a steep street camber and slight incline up the driveway.

air up the air bags to pick the rear up. Dont have airbags consider installing some. Helped me when I went to 65psi in exits of ramped areas.

j-d wrote:
"very low" and "occasionally" suggest there's not much that can be done about it beyond the defensive measures noted above.

I recently replaced the "skid brackets" which stuck WAY down with some wheels......which may not stick down far enough. I haven't had a chance to test it yet.

Since buying the set "made for trailers" I have seen the same wheels in Tractor Supply and even Harbor Freight.....for substantially less money of course.

"very low" and "occasionally" suggest there's not much that can be done about it beyond the defensive measures noted above. Unless "very low" means Sagging. If it's old or driven a lot (and oddly, standing a lot), the springs could have lowered the rear a bit. If they're weak it'll bottom more easily than it should, sway more, and make it easier for one corner to dip into hitting bottom.

Is the coach level on level ground? If it's long rear overhang, common with rear queen bed floor plans, likely this is Nature of the Beast.

You can try going out of the driveway at an angle if possible. I notice if there is a large dip I will angle out to prevent dragging the skids on the rear. JMO

mlts22 wrote:
There are skid wheels you can put on the back of the "C"... but you wind up lowering the clearance even further.

And you remove weight from the tires/suspension and put it on the rear of the frame.

Tail dragging is a common problem with the C's with long overhangs. Not really much you can do about it. Larger tires won't make any difference.

Ron

There are skid wheels you can put on the back of the "C"... but you wind up lowering the clearance even further.