Hello All,I am new to Class A MH ownership and want to thank everyone who runs and participates in this forum. I have spent untold hours researching forums and the amount of information and detail is greatly appreciated. My learning curve has literally been accelerated by years as I am able to understand common problems and weaknesses of the P32 chassis; so thank you very much!A couple of months ago my wife and I purchased a 27’ 1995 Georgie Boy Pursuit with 37,000 miles. It has 454 TBI engine with front disc brakes and rear drum. The GVWR is 12,300, front GAWR is 4,880, rear GAWR is 10,000. Initial measured weights (me, wife, daughter, but no supplies, minimal fuel, water, etc) with 2,360lb horse trailer (no horse) in tow are: Front = 4,220, RV total = 11,800, RV+ trailer = 14,200. The chassis is 159” wheelbase; P31432.Last week I completed the installation of Moog lower ball joints, new brake pads, brake bleed and Stengel Bros coil springs (PN 350-6560SD). The springs are rated at 3789 lbs each. I made a Guestimate that the stock springs were rated at 2789 lbs (??) and purchased these springs hoping to get rid of the airbags and gain an inch or two in lift. I ended up with a little over 3” of lift and now concerned that these springs are too much and will have to be replaced with 3289lb springs instead. My current/wishful thinking is to continue with rear end work/inspection/measurements and once complete, load her up for real; right now my wife has gutted the inside for renovation, so it will be a while before I can test drive it. I measured the suspension clearances after the new coils were installed and have RR = 4-1/8” , LR=4-1/2”, RF = 5-1/8”, LF = 5-1/4”. The chassis/frame currently sets about dead level, but it is not loaded at all, not to mention the horse trailer. Per the “P Chassis for Motorhomes General Information for Alignment, 5” is the max height listed in the table to determine proper caster. Am I dreaming that the 5+” of height could be okay? Comments, advice and experience welcome…………………For reference, work completed to date includes; new oil, water and trans temp gauges, hitch reinforcement, trailer connector and wiring, front/rear sway bar bushings, Dale deep trans pan, radiator flush, SS bell crank, steering damper, brake pads, repack wheel bearings, thermostat and hoses. Work still planned includes; oil change, inspect spark plugs/wires, new master cylinder (mine is pile of rust)/fluid flush, rear brakes, brake controller installation, rear-end fluid change, shackle bushings, drum brake job, power steering fluid change and finally front-end alignment.Thanks, Greg

why do you think you need to drop back on the front springs. they certainly should cure the weak front end that P-30/32s had.bumpy

I have a 1996 GBM Swinger that had a ride height about 3/4 inch. I installed the HD springs (6000 lbs) if I remember correctly. My front end was rated for 5500 lbs. My ride height was raised to about 3 1/2 inches. It was a much improved ride especially over expansion joints. I had the same fear of being too stiff but the supplier recommended going to a heavier spring. I was not disappointed. Have you driven it yet? How does it ride?

Do I understand that the new springs added 3 inches over the prior height, not 5 inches over the prior height? If that's correct then I would wait until I get the furnishings back in before I made any changes. The P series are a little low in the front by nature and I added springs to mine to give it a little lift. I did not get the lift you got but maybe 2-3 inch clearance from the bump stops (don't remember exactly at the moment). It drives great. Reassemble the stuff, drive, then decide would be my strategy. However, there are some very knowledgeable people on here that will respond I'm sure and may veto my opinion.Do the shocks still fit?

Personally, I would not worry about it. After all, those heights are with the rig totally unloaded. The measurements will change when loaded and should be well within specs for the alignment.

Appreciate the quick responses. My fear is when fully loaded with fuel, supplies and the horse trailer the backend will be 2-3" lower than the front. I don't have any experience and don't even know if that is a problem or not. I understand from reading posts you want the load distributed as evenly as possible; I assume without overloading front/rear axle. Since the rear GAWR is so much higher, seems like it will have to bear most of the load. I also haven't decided what I might need to do to rear suspension; airbags, additional leaf, etc. I can' test drive it right now (it's killing me to wait) since the inside is being renovated, but hopefully later this week or this weekend. JayGee; you got it right - new coils added 3" of height. Total clearance from bump stop BRACKET is about 5-1/4"Greg

P32 New Coil Springs Too Much? | Good Sam Community

tropical36
Explorer
Mar 17, 2014
mike brez wrote:
tropical36 wrote:
mike brez wrote:
tropical36 wrote:
mike brez wrote:
tropical36 wrote:
mike brez wrote:
Iron to iron is the correct way to measure. Forget about the rubber stop.

I've seen this listed both ways and can say this........with having only 1 3/4", not counting the rubber stop, is next to having nothing, but then I don't think I've seen this accepted 1 3/4 - 2 1/2" height ever listed, less the stops.

Page 18 Here. Also if you have bags in the coil springs the proper way to add air to them is to raise tires off ground let all the air out then inflate. Lower rv to ground and then you can reduce pressure for your likening.

After looking at the diagram and studying the chart for a Class A MH and after reviewing my previous statement, as well, I've decided to stick with said statement. Again, this is just IMHO and only worth what you're paying for it.
I do agree with what you're saying about the air bags and assuming one would insist on living with such, which is another example of trying to make a right, out of two wrongs. Having said that, the best engineers in the world, can't win against the bean counters.

Are you saying the manuals are wrong?

I'm saying that I still don't see the dimensions I specified, that doesn't include the stops on the chart. Just larger and since I don't know for sure, without crawling down under right now, what the stops measure, then the specs. could well be the same and there is more than one way to measure things, in most cases. One thing is for sure, the stops are going to make contact first and I for one, don't like hearing them doing that on a regular basis.

When someone or something tells you how to measure their is one way. Like in this case manual says to measure from iron to iron. :S

OK, one more and for the last time. Measure it with this manual (I've seen it both ways) or however you'd like and what I said originally, was that you should end up with 1 3/4 - 2 1/2" between the stops for proper alignment. Also the instructions you'll get from Henderson with their coils for doing it right, once and for all.
1969SSCamaro
Explorer
Mar 17, 2014
Fortunately got it figured out about 30 minutes after last post. Appears I was done in by man's best friend, the mut. The dogs were in the MH "helping" my wife install carpet and the engine cover was off. One of the dogs slipped into the engine compartment and evidently stepped on one of the connectors next to the distributer. Not sure if it was part of the electronic ignition module or what, but as soon as my wife told me about the dogs, I started looking and found a loose connector. Anyway the MH handled really well in city traffic with the new springs, but I had planned to do a much longer test drive on the interstate. One thing I did notice was the calipers and/or wheel bearings seemed pretty warm. I measured the caliper at around 250 deg F and the rotor around 200 F. Also measured rotor temp right next to outside bearing and it was around 180 F. Based on that it seems like the heat is just the brakes. I did install ceramic pads and probably just hypersensitive since this was first drive with them. Anyone know what normal temp range might be for city driving; ambient temp was about 70 F and it was not excessive stop and go, but definitely lots of street lights.
1969SSCamaro
Explorer
Mar 17, 2014
On My Cell Phone Typing. Stuck On Side Of Road. Maybe Fuel Filter, Vapor Lock. If I Wait Several Minutes It Will Start, But Only Goes A Few Hundred Feet Before Dying . Trying To Get To Walmartparking Lot And Diagnose Tomorrow. Any Thoughts Welcome. Will Provide More Detail Tonight.
mike_brez
Explorer
Mar 17, 2014
tropical36 wrote:
mike brez wrote:
tropical36 wrote:
mike brez wrote:
tropical36 wrote:
mike brez wrote:
Iron to iron is the correct way to measure. Forget about the rubber stop.

I've seen this listed both ways and can say this........with having only 1 3/4", not counting the rubber stop, is next to having nothing, but then I don't think I've seen this accepted 1 3/4 - 2 1/2" height ever listed, less the stops.

Page 18 Here. Also if you have bags in the coil springs the proper way to add air to them is to raise tires off ground let all the air out then inflate. Lower rv to ground and then you can reduce pressure for your likening.

After looking at the diagram and studying the chart for a Class A MH and after reviewing my previous statement, as well, I've decided to stick with said statement. Again, this is just IMHO and only worth what you're paying for it.
I do agree with what you're saying about the air bags and assuming one would insist on living with such, which is another example of trying to make a right, out of two wrongs. Having said that, the best engineers in the world, can't win against the bean counters.

Are you saying the manuals are wrong?

I'm saying that I still don't see the dimensions I specified, that doesn't include the stops on the chart. Just larger and since I don't know for sure, without crawling down under right now, what the stops measure, then the specs. could well be the same and there is more than one way to measure things, in most cases. One thing is for sure, the stops are going to make contact first and I for one, don't like hearing them doing that on a regular basis.

When someone or something tells you how to measure their is one way. Like in this case manual says to measure from iron to iron. :S
tropical36
Explorer
Mar 16, 2014
mike brez wrote:
tropical36 wrote:
mike brez wrote:
tropical36 wrote:
mike brez wrote:
Iron to iron is the correct way to measure. Forget about the rubber stop.

I've seen this listed both ways and can say this........with having only 1 3/4", not counting the rubber stop, is next to having nothing, but then I don't think I've seen this accepted 1 3/4 - 2 1/2" height ever listed, less the stops.

Page 18 Here. Also if you have bags in the coil springs the proper way to add air to them is to raise tires off ground let all the air out then inflate. Lower rv to ground and then you can reduce pressure for your likening.

After looking at the diagram and studying the chart for a Class A MH and after reviewing my previous statement, as well, I've decided to stick with said statement. Again, this is just IMHO and only worth what you're paying for it.
I do agree with what you're saying about the air bags and assuming one would insist on living with such, which is another example of trying to make a right, out of two wrongs. Having said that, the best engineers in the world, can't win against the bean counters.

Are you saying the manuals are wrong?

I'm saying that I still don't see the dimensions I specified, that doesn't include the stops on the chart. Just larger and since I don't know for sure, without crawling down under right now, what the stops measure, then the specs. could well be the same and there is more than one way to measure things, in most cases. One thing is for sure, the stops are going to make contact first and I for one, don't like hearing them doing that on a regular basis.
mike_brez
Explorer
Mar 16, 2014
tropical36 wrote:
mike brez wrote:
tropical36 wrote:
mike brez wrote:
Iron to iron is the correct way to measure. Forget about the rubber stop.

I've seen this listed both ways and can say this........with having only 1 3/4", not counting the rubber stop, is next to having nothing, but then I don't think I've seen this accepted 1 3/4 - 2 1/2" height ever listed, less the stops.

Page 18 Here. Also if you have bags in the coil springs the proper way to add air to them is to raise tires off ground let all the air out then inflate. Lower rv to ground and then you can reduce pressure for your likening.

After looking at the diagram and studying the chart for a Class A MH and after reviewing my previous statement, as well, I've decided to stick with said statement. Again, this is just IMHO and only worth what you're paying for it.
I do agree with what you're saying about the air bags and assuming one would insist on living with such, which is another example of trying to make a right, out of two wrongs. Having said that, the best engineers in the world, can't win against the bean counters.

Are you saying the manuals are wrong?
tropical36
Explorer
Mar 16, 2014
mike brez wrote:
tropical36 wrote:
mike brez wrote:
Iron to iron is the correct way to measure. Forget about the rubber stop.

I've seen this listed both ways and can say this........with having only 1 3/4", not counting the rubber stop, is next to having nothing, but then I don't think I've seen this accepted 1 3/4 - 2 1/2" height ever listed, less the stops.

Page 18 Here. Also if you have bags in the coil springs the proper way to add air to them is to raise tires off ground let all the air out then inflate. Lower rv to ground and then you can reduce pressure for your likening.

After looking at the diagram and studying the chart for a Class A MH and after reviewing my previous statement, as well, I've decided to stick with said statement. Again, this is just IMHO and only worth what you're paying for it.
I do agree with what you're saying about the air bags and assuming one would insist on living with such, which is another example of trying to make a right, out of two wrongs. Having said that, the best engineers in the world, can't win against the bean counters.
mike_brez
Explorer
Mar 16, 2014
tropical36 wrote:
mike brez wrote:
Iron to iron is the correct way to measure. Forget about the rubber stop.

I've seen this listed both ways and can say this........with having only 1 3/4", not counting the rubber stop, is next to having nothing, but then I don't think I've seen this accepted 1 3/4 - 2 1/2" height ever listed, less the stops.

Page 18 Here. Also if you have bags in the coil springs the proper way to add air to them is to raise tires off ground let all the air out then inflate. Lower rv to ground and then you can reduce pressure for your likening.
tropical36
Explorer
Mar 16, 2014
mike brez wrote:
Iron to iron is the correct way to measure. Forget about the rubber stop.

I've seen this listed both ways and can say this........with having only 1 3/4", not counting the rubber stop, is next to having nothing, but then I don't think I've seen this accepted 1 3/4 - 2 1/2" height ever listed, less the stops.
mike_brez
Explorer
Mar 16, 2014
Iron to iron is the correct way to measure. Forget about the rubber stop.

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