I know Doug is trying to help, but I have to respectfully disagree with some of his points....
1) Override mode is a good test, once. If you use override mode as a workaround, you'll burn up a motor. It only took a few times using this to burn one of mine up. And it happened on a bedroom slide, which still took 500+ pounds of force to retract the slide after the motor burned up.
2) I agree with this fully! That was kind of the point of my post.
3) Yes... Winnebago might be a good resource. Don't waste your time trying to talk to LCI
4) LCI sold a system that won't hold up to the applications they originally specified it for. It actually does work well for small slides, other than the occasional bad motor. I'd even go as far to say that I prefer it for small slides due to packaging efficiency. My 3 small slides have had no issues, other than the occasional bad motor.
5) The rollers themselves don't usually fail. The floor structure it what breaks down. This hasn't happened to me, but it was near universal with Thor Palazzo owners it seems like. Thor's fixed was adding galvanized flashing under the floor as a wear surface. This is fixable, but my point is, if your floor structure is breaking down don't keep using it. It'll end up getting stuck.
6) False. The rollers support most of the gravity load, but a large slide room creates an eccentric load when the room is all the way out, and sometimes all the way in if it's not supported by the floor slides. This eccentric load is reacted by the pinion shafts in the walls. Two problems here.... 1) The gear tracks wear out prematurely, then the misaligned teeth create drag, or 2) The pinion shaft fatigues and breaks. Schwintek originally told owners the system should not be lubed, and now they tell owners it should be lubed with silicon spray EVERY use.
7) Sure. Go ahead and try this. Just beware the motor current limits are programmed there for a reason. It is possible a bad motor can cause this symptom, but you'll see one end stop first, then the other end stop a second or 2 later after the ends got too far out of synch.
8) Similar to above, if the system needs to be re-clocked, you'll see the 2 ends moving out of sync. There's no downside to re-clocking, so this is good advice. Just make sure it's actually at its end of travel when you do this.
9) LCI doesn't recommend installing the controller with a breaker, because it won't save a possible fault in the controller. It should be fused only. Do definitely try to find where the controller is, because if the room ever does stop moving, the light will flash and the flashes correspond to a fault code. And... You'll want to know where it's at in case you need to unplug the motor connectors, which allows them to freewheel.
