Photos Now Online ! wood rot in floor and wall

I have a very similar coach. Does your slide seal evenly top to bottom? I had a small leak along the forward edge of the slide and noticed the slide did not seal evenly. Some adjustments made it seal better.

While you have the carpet removed is an ideal time to put some foam sealant into that 3 inch wiring hole that Holiday Rambler cut so they could push 3/4 inch of wires through. It may already be caulked adequately below in the wiring bay but I never miss an opportunity to seal openings.

Good luck with your repair. Looks like you dodged the bullet on this one.

Fred

Flyfisher wrote:
Thanks guys for all your advice. I took Chlorox and painted the floor in the affected areas and it was amazing how much better it looked after just a few minutes. Before I did that I checked with a screwdriver and the floor felt pretty darn good. I also ordered from the Rot Doctor the Penetrating Epoxy along with some Laminating epoxy.
I didn't have time to pull the wall panel back , but did poke a screwdriver into some wood in the and it felt ok. I plan on removing some of the affected wall board out tomorrow and checking it out.
What was looking insurmountable looks better now!

Great. From what you have said, it sounds like you will be alright. Just give it a long time to be sure it is completely dry before you do the epoxy. I have little patience and know it can be hard.

Thanks guys for all your advice. I took Chlorox and painted the floor in the affected areas and it was amazing how much better it looked after just a few minutes. Before I did that I checked with a screwdriver and the floor felt pretty darn good. I also ordered from the Rot Doctor the Penetrating Epoxy along with some Laminating epoxy.
I didn't have time to pull the wall panel back , but did poke a screwdriver into some wood in the and it felt ok. I plan on removing some of the affected wall board out tomorrow and checking it out.
What was looking insurmountable looks better now!

vjstangelo wrote:
Look for a product called Rot Doctor. I used on my TT and was able to salvage joists that were 50%+ rotted through.

I can't pull your pictures because imgur is blocked here. I have had more experience than I would like in rot remediation and floor replacement. I cannot recommend the 2 part epoxy from Rot doctor enough. It has excellent penetration and wicks well. It cures harder than the original wood in a couple days.

I really wish I could see the pictures but: Someone mentioned poking it with a screwdriver. Do that. Is it just a little soft on top, does some moisture seep out but there is still firm wood underneath or does it disintegrate readily?

You know what you have to do if it just completely falls to pieces under a screwdriver.

As long as you still have some stability, you can usually just remediate what is there. It takes a while but is a lot easier than replacing most of the time. I used Ethylene Glycol alone to destroy the mold and dry rot. You don't have to let the moist wood dry out as the antifreeze mixes well with water but I did. It took about 4 days of drying with a fan on it before mine seemed dry enough. Then I slathered the Ethylene Glycol on until it was completely saturated and just couldn't take any more.

Then... it sits for at least a full week drying back out. After that you are almost done. another slathering of the 2 part penetrating epoxy will finish the job. I got the application syringe when I ordered mine and it was very high quality. You may not need it however. I used it for some nonstructural solid wood framing that I wanted to save. If you have damage to any wood just above the rotted floor, the syringe may help.

Thanks for the photos. Take a screwdriver and poke the floor in various areas. If you feel resistance, your floor is ok. What really looks to me is that it has been stained, from water, and you have black mold. Use some bleach with a brush.
My coach had the same issue- black mold.
The wall, can be done the same way- with the screwdriver. I see the wallpaper had been lifted.
Let us know what you find.

The pic's are there now. two of them are out of focus but the one good one is enough for the folks here to be able to help you.

That's been leaking for quite a while and it appears that it goes right up to the fire wall. I would see if I could remove the adjacent wall panel and try to determine if the leak is further up the wall. If it isn't then it could be from the wheel well, but you must find and fix the leak before you go any further.

HR does not have the brochures for 97 but the 2003 Endeavor brochure describes the construction here:

Alumaframe® Superstructure
Steel Cage Cockpit, Chassis and Firewall
Construction
Peaked Aluminum Roof
with Fiberglass Insulation
Smooth Gel Coat Fiberglass
Exterior Walls
Front & Rear Molded Fiberglass Cap
Fiberglass Front and Rear Bumpers
(Integrated in Caps)
Metal Fuel Access Door
Stamped Grill Door
for Transmission Cooler
Engine Doors Struts
Angled Fiberglass Engine Cover
Entry Step Storage
Steel Framed Floor
Laminated Structurwood™ Flooring
Air Activated Power Step Well Cover
Interior Paneling with 3/4” Insulation
Foam Insulation Underbelly
with Luaun Backer

You may want to call HR and see if they can tell you how the floor is constructed:

•Technical Support, Parts and Warranty Assistance: (877) 466-6226

Good Luck

Thanks Greyghost . Hopefully it is working now.

I tried to look at the pic's but they are "Not Publically Available"

Photos posted ! Hopefully this link will work on the photos and can help figure out what to do . Thanks !
http://flyfisher.imgur.com/all/

Thanks for the suggestions. I haven't figured out how to post a photo yet.