vjstangelo wrote:
Look for a product called Rot Doctor. I used on my TT and was able to salvage joists that were 50%+ rotted through.
I can't pull your pictures because imgur is blocked here. I have had more experience than I would like in rot remediation and floor replacement. I cannot recommend the 2 part epoxy from Rot doctor enough. It has excellent penetration and wicks well. It cures harder than the original wood in a couple days.
I really wish I could see the pictures but: Someone mentioned poking it with a screwdriver. Do that. Is it just a little soft on top, does some moisture seep out but there is still firm wood underneath or does it disintegrate readily?
You know what you have to do if it just completely falls to pieces under a screwdriver.
As long as you still have some stability, you can usually just remediate what is there. It takes a while but is a lot easier than replacing most of the time. I used Ethylene Glycol alone to destroy the mold and dry rot. You don't have to let the moist wood dry out as the antifreeze mixes well with water but I did. It took about 4 days of drying with a fan on it before mine seemed dry enough. Then I slathered the Ethylene Glycol on until it was completely saturated and just couldn't take any more.
Then... it sits for at least a full week drying back out. After that you are almost done. another slathering of the 2 part penetrating epoxy will finish the job. I got the application syringe when I ordered mine and it was very high quality. You may not need it however. I used it for some nonstructural solid wood framing that I wanted to save. If you have damage to any wood just above the rotted floor, the syringe may help.
