Forum Discussion

Andonso's avatar
Andonso
Explorer
May 10, 2018

Power converter putting out too low of voltage

I have a Class-C in a RV Park that pretty much stays in one spot for the last 10 years.

I replaced it's Parallax 35 amp power converter with a Progressive Dynamics 9280 which was sort of an overkill for a 23 foot RV.

I noticed when my Norcold refrig started to produce a Lo_Dc error futher testing showed dc voltage to be approx. 9.5.

Disconnecting the 3 house batteries it appears the 9280 stopped putting out 12 VDC. I'll further test sometime tommorrow but it appears the power converter is gone unless there's an internal fuse somewhere. The three external green 30 amp fuses appear to be ok.

I'm thinking it may be better to look for a new power converter rather than trying to have the 9280 repaired?

I probably don't need 80 amps as I only have 3 batteries which I really don't need as the RV rarely travels anymore and is lived in year around with utilities.

However the RV Norcold Refrigerator which I'm thinking of replacing with an electric does require 12 VDC and then there is the interior 12 volt lighting. I don't use it gas furnace anymore so I don't think 12 volts is really required other than for the refrigerator and lighting.


I've been looking around at new power converters but am not that familiar with their differences and quality.

So far have looked at Progressive Dynamics 45 - 60 amps, WFCO Ultra III 9800 45 amp, (WFCO replacement) WF-9835 - PowerMax 35 AMP, Powermax Pm3-45, Progressive Dynamics PD4560CSV 4500 series 60 amp,

and others.

I'm interested in this one from WFCO to replace my entire AC/DC control panel and board of which the 9280 was installed with very little room underneath. So I'm thinking with perhaps some modifications I can replace my entire existing AC/DC panel and the 9280 with this WFCO.

WFCO 55 amp RV power converter WF-8955PEC


I'm uncertain of the quality of some of the brands such as Powermax, WFCO, etc. when compared to Progressive Dynamics.


Should I stay with Progressive Dynamics?
Class C
  • ronfisherman's avatar
    ronfisherman
    Moderator
    May 10, 2018
    I switch from a PD to a PowerMax a few years ago. Happy with it.
    Are you sure that one of the batteries is not bad drawing down the PD?
  • Andonso's avatar
    Andonso
    Explorer
    May 10, 2018
    ronfisherman wrote:
    I switch from a PD to a PowerMax a few years ago. Happy with it.
    Are you sure that one of the batteries is not bad drawing down the PD?


    I don't think so as when I disconnected the battery bank from the power center my voltmeter showed no (zero) DC output from the 9280.

    I've temporarily connected a 10 amp battery charger to the PD9280 dc output so the refrigerator no longer has a Lo_DC error.
  • DrewE's avatar
    DrewE
    Explorer II
    May 10, 2018
    Have you checked the output fuses with an ohmmeter or other tester, or just visually? It's sometimes possible for fuses to be blown but appear--at least at first glance--to be okay. Also, are you checking the output voltage directly at the converter, or at the other end of the wires that attach to it? If the latter, it's of course possible that a connection could have failed.

    If the converter is getting input power and not producing output power, I'd give PD a call and see what sort of support they can provide. They're usually fairly decent to deal with, from what I've heard, and I'm not sure there are many "better" converters generally available. There are some that are about as good and as well built, but they'd be more of a horizontal move than an upwards one. Most would say that WFCO is worse quality, and PowerMax maybe about equivalent, depending on one's usage etc. If you're plugged in all the time (or essentially all the time), you probably don't need a super special converter, mainly just one that will not continually overcharge the batteries.
  • time2roll's avatar
    time2roll
    Nomad
    May 10, 2018
    PD9200 is generally regarded as very reliable. Same for PowerMax and IOTA.
    WFCO I don't recommend.

    35 or 45 amps is plenty if plugged in. Will work fine charging three batteries.

    www.bestconverter.com
  • bukhrn's avatar
    bukhrn
    Explorer III
    May 10, 2018
    DrewE wrote:
    Have you checked the output fuses with an ohmmeter or other tester, or just visually? It's sometimes possible for fuses to be blown but appear--at least at first glance--to be okay. Also, are you checking the output voltage directly at the converter, or at the other end of the wires that attach to it? If the latter, it's of course possible that a connection could have failed.

    If the converter is getting input power and not producing output power, I'd give PD a call and see what sort of support they can provide. They're usually fairly decent to deal with, from what I've heard, and I'm not sure there are many "better" converters generally available. There are some that are about as good and as well built, but they'd be more of a horizontal move than an upwards one. Most would say that WFCO is worse quality, and PowerMax maybe about equivalent, depending on one's usage etc. If you're plugged in all the time (or essentially all the time), you probably don't need a super special converter, mainly just one that will not continually overcharge the batteries.
    X-2 I bought our Forester in Aug '07, the WFCO converter was replaced under warranty in Jan '08.
  • Camreal's avatar
    Camreal
    Explorer
    May 10, 2018
    Replaced my WFCO couple years ago with the PowerMax and it has worked great.
  • BFL13's avatar
    BFL13
    Explorer II
    May 10, 2018
    Yes, confirm there is power in when there is no power out. One way is to unplug the converter and plug it into an extension cord running directly from the pedestal. Check for DC output at the converter's terminals.

    The Parallax was hard wired for its 120v input and there is a breaker for that, often shared with another circuit. But the PD has a plug so you must have found a receptacle for it.

    Whatever you did to get 120v to the converter might be the problem now. The PD 80 amper is supposed to have a 20 amp plug, not a 15, so you would need a 20 or a 15/20 receptacle, which is supposed to have 12 wire instead of 14 and it should go to a 20a breaker, which you might not have fitted in the panel when you installed the PD.

    If it works on the alternative input path, then look at the 120v input starting with the breaker for the receptacle the converter was plugged into. Also if that receptacle is on a GFCI circuit that has popped.

    The Ultra is a WFCO too, so run away! The other brands are all good for when sitting on shore power.
  • Andonso's avatar
    Andonso
    Explorer
    May 10, 2018
    Yes I checked all the AC and DC power at their source connections with my old Fluke 75 DMM.

    I also disconnected the batteries and the PD9280 just doesn't have any power output.

    A couple of weeks ago some water splashed out of the sink above the distribution center which is located under the sink. I disconnected power and cleaned up the water with some towles and let dry out.

    Everything was working ok for a ~couple of weeks, however the PD9280 all of sudden quite putting out DC last night. So I suspect there may have been some damage to the PD9280 from the water getting on the AC supply wiring which produced some minor sparking.

    I'm planning on replacing the entire dist control panel another that has a built-in converter that will fit into the existing installation space.

    The original Power distrubution panel and converter is Magnetek 6300.

    I'm looking at a Magnatex 7300 45 amp that runs around $250.00 with shipping.

    There are also upgrade kits: http://www.bestconverter.com/MagnetekParallax-630073008300-Upgrade-Kits_c_64.html

    The WFCO 55 amp 8900 series runs from $135.00 with free shipping

    Approx. a $115.00 difference in cost.

    I still have the old 35 amp Magnetex converter that I think still may work. I remember the fan quit working. I would need to pull it out of storage and test it.

    However the door for the Magnetek 6300 was misplaced and I haven't been able to find it.

    So I'm planning on getting an entire power distribution center with power converter.

    My PD9280 after I puchased and installed it years ago did have problems being still under warranty I sent it to PD for repair. However after some time PD sent me a bill for ~$150.00 of which I paid to get back the converter.

    I was told I was being billed for the repair because the AC cord with plug had been cut and had voided it's manufacture's warranty. I had cut the cord to install it with my existing Magnetex/Parallax pdc.
  • BFL13's avatar
    BFL13
    Explorer II
    May 10, 2018
    First make sure you have your DC meter on the converter's terminals to check it, and not just go with the wires that go on the battery. There are possible "opens" between converter and battery like a fuse or breaker or a wire come out of a set screw terminal on the DC fuse panel.

    Ok so you hardwired the PD to the same 120v as the Parallax had, which would have been just the two wires, black (hot) to the breaker and white (neutral)to the N buss. There was no green neg ground.

    The Parallax converter (lower portion) in its metal case touching the big metal case for the whole power centre got its ground via the big metal case which is grounded to the RV frame.

    The green wire from the PD I think should be grounded to that metal case somehow, but somebody else here should confirm.

    You would still have the same 120v breaker for the input to the PD, which you can check. You can use your multi-meter on 120 to see if you have 120 on the converter side of the breaker where you wired it in. Then see if there is DC out. You should suspect your wiring job to see if it is still good.

    I think your "Parallax" is really a Magnetek 6300 from that long ago, and with the 6300 gone, you would have needed a DC fuse panel that did not split for dirty and clean DC like the 6300s did. If you did not do that, you still can. (You can jumper the two pos red and blue on the old 6300's panel to fix that) The 7300 was all clean, so no problem. That is still the case about the fuse panel even if your do have to replace the PD.

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