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chuckbear's avatar
chuckbear
Explorer
Aug 18, 2015

PowerGear Warning Light

Did a search but couldn't find anything. The PowerGear jacks are down warning light and buzzer stays on even though all four jacks are fully in the up positions. The light stays on and the warning buzzer starts when the emergency brake is released. I have tried extending them and retracting several times, retracting them, turning the engine and ignition off and then restarting then engine. It still stays on. Anyone else had this problem, what did you do to correct it? Thanks. Chuck

8 Replies

  • Finally got the cap off, it screws on, and the fluid is up to the bottom of what appears to be an insert where the caps is attached. It looks like it won't take much to completely fill it but I don't have the right type of fluid. I will get some today and add it to the tank to see if the problem goes away. Thanks. Chuck
  • Hi I have the power gear system and low fluid is the first thing to check then check the wiring to the float switch on the storage cylinder. One of the wires going to the float is 12 v and the other is a ground going up to your panel. The wiring there or the float could be faulty, but usually low fluid. The cap on mine just pulls off. It is not threaded.
    Good luck
  • Warning light and buzzer. Probably low on fluid Dextron III. Now...why is it low?
    In my case, two of the hydraulic hoses failed in about a month.
    First was a 7 footer...to the front jack on the drivers' side. Then, later, a 30 footer to one of the rear jacks (passenger side). Both had pinholes...due, I think to rubbing and age.

    Also...check out the jack(s) "foot". If there is oil there, the seals in the jack went bad.And that is where the leak is. Then the fun starts. Either in the owners manual or (better) the website, you get a listing of all their jacks. And the "replacement" models for the older ones.
    Some are rebuildable...others are not. Of course mine (2001) fall under the "NOT rebuildable" category. Of course. Checking the internet for used ones, I found ALL of the ones listed kinda shaky or actually incomplete. 1/2 price, of course. used. (Will they work? DO they work? Who knows?)

    NEW ONE: They won't sell it to me...only thru a dealer or retailer. BS. So i had to go to an RV dealer and have them order it for me. Must have added 100 bucks simply to make the phone call. A bit over $600....just for the replacement jack (which, by the way is "rebuildable") and I did all the work of removing the old and installing the new.
    Job is simple, but you need good tools. A GOOD 200psi compressor and a GOOD Snap-On impact gun. The handy-dandy Harbor Freight items just arn't up to the job. Get the new bolts, nuts and lock-washers from Grainger Tools. Good hardend hardware. I think my 5/16-18 bolts were 1- 1/4 inches long. Bad thing about Grainger...you must by 100 of each. About 100 bucks. But no-one else has these hardened fasteners. So...you have extras for when the rest of the jacks fail. (humor).

    G'luck!
  • Even if you think the fluid level is fine toss in about 1/2 a cup and see what happens. Mine was doing that and 1/2 a cup fixed the issue.
  • Thanks. I'll check the fluid. The cap to check it seems to be frozen, so I need to work on getting it off without damage. Chuck
  • William B wrote:
    Probably just need fluid.


    X2.

    Chuck, our previous coach did what you are describing several times. Eventually, I had to have the hydraulic pump replaced. I really think our original was defective as the problem happened on a regular basis until it started leaking bad.

    After the new pump, all was well.

    So, add some transmission fluid to the reservoir with the levelers up/retracted. Also, the slides should be closed too if they use the same pump (ours had two separate pumps).

    Good luck,
    MM.
  • William B wrote:
    Probably just need fluid.


    Ditto

    have a friend that put up with that for months and finally added fluid and that fixed it.