propane heat

Pull the last vent in the duct work if it was like mine the ducts in the Styrofoam just keep going they don't put a stopper or plug in them. In my case it was in the AC vents and it was pushing the cool air into the end caps. I plugged the vent duct after the last vent and now I get more air into the coach.

Yeah, we have a variety of space heaters that we can try. I like the idea of the park payin for my heat. Like I said in the other post, Winnebago tech support told me the duct work was encased in Styrofoam and therefore inaccessible. Next trip, we'll play with closing off vents just to see if we can get the air flow up front.

I have verified that the ducts are connected and free of obstruction to the front by blowing air from the hall vent towards the front. It appears that the design may have issues but like everyone else does, we can carry auxiliary heat. At least the floor system will do that which matters most to me by keeping plumbing pipes from freezing up. Already put the drop light in the water compartment as suggested by Winnie tech support.

The furnace and hot water heater should be easily visible from outside as they have vents In my 2015 35G it was in the rear (furnace) and same on 2016 38Q. Front vent was not good on 35G but the floor sure was nice and warm. Seemed like the duct was leaking or not connected. I get a lot more air flow on the 38Q. Efficient 1500watt space heaters. Probably not but when on someone else's dime. I use the heater in fireplace and it works well. I have a narrow oil filled panel at 400 watts that works well.

upsidedown Charlie wrote:
I had a long chat with Winnebago service. I got a guy who knew answers. The MH is equipped with two floor vents that have shut offs. He is sending me a third. What he told me is that the system will be fine if I totally shut off two vents. If I do anything with the third vent, he said it was okay to totally block off 1 vent totally and that I should just shut off the other two partially. So I already know that if I shut off the hall vent, the air flow to the two front vents increases noticeably. One problem solved.

I learned that the floor ducts are encased in Styrofoam so they are totally inaccessible. He did say that the schematics I want are available on their site but that windows 10 would not work with them. The fix for me is that he is emailing me the schematics....problem solved.

I intend to open every compartment and crawl under the bus until I find the furnace, water heater and anything else I want to see.

We've made the jump from a 30 year old 43 foot boat to a 2016 Winnie and let me tell you, the technology change is overwhelming.

The tech also told me which outlets were run on the inverter and the ones that weren't. The receptacle closest to the front of the bus is safe to plug a 1500 watt heater into and that's the one we need to use. I can supplement heat with the portable and set the gas furnace to a lower temp and save gas. Winnie tech support has been very helpful.

Pretty much all of the electrical and plumbing diagrams as well as a very extensive parts list is available for downloading from Winnebago's web site. All of the diagrams and parts list work under Windows 10 if you have Adobe reader. The 3-D parts display for individual parts may not work with Windows 10. So far on mine it does. To download the parts list you need your serial number. The parts list is specific to your coach.

I have owned 3 winnebagos with the same problem. Winnebago told me to only close the vents that were supplied with adjustable vents. Any more and you will be "trapping" too much heat and damage something. If the ducts are clear of obstacles I was told that's about all you can do. Was told to make sure the front dash heat/acnd controls were set to "max air" or "off" as any other setting provides a direct path from the outside to the inside. My info came from a winnebago design consultant recommended by winnebago. I heated the front with an electric heater.

Ya I've never worried about throttling the vents down in an RV to transfer heat to another room.

I've used this company to replace open vents with adjustable ones.

vent products

Hi Charlie,

Pull the receptacle and check to see if it is a "stab" terminal or screws. If it is "stab" replace it with a female rated for 20 amps.

I've replaced all but two of mine. I'm able to heat 100% electrically at -37 C (-34 f).

upsidedown Charlie wrote:
The receptacle closest to the front of the bus is safe to plug a 1500 watt heater into and that's the one we need to use. I can supplement heat with the portable and set the gas furnace to a lower temp and save gas. Winnie tech support has been very helpful.

I had a long chat with Winnebago service. I got a guy who knew answers. The MH is equipped with two floor vents that have shut offs. He is sending me a third. What he told me is that the system will be fine if I totally shut off two vents. If I do anything with the third vent, he said it was okay to totally block off 1 vent totally and that I should just shut off the other two partially. So I already know that if I shut off the hall vent, the air flow to the two front vents increases noticeably. One problem solved.

I learned that the floor ducts are encased in Styrofoam so they are totally inaccessible. He did say that the schematics I want are available on their site but that windows 10 would not work with them. The fix for me is that he is emailing me the schematics....problem solved.

I intend to open every compartment and crawl under the bus until I find the furnace, water heater and anything else I want to see.

We've made the jump from a 30 year old 43 foot boat to a 2016 Winnie and let me tell you, the technology change is overwhelming.

The tech also told me which outlets were run on the inverter and the ones that weren't. The receptacle closest to the front of the bus is safe to plug a 1500 watt heater into and that's the one we need to use. I can supplement heat with the portable and set the gas furnace to a lower temp and save gas. Winnie tech support has been very helpful.

I added two new ducts to fix my poorly installed and poorly designed system. Very unbalanced and restricted ducting that was minimal at best and caused the burner to cycle from over heating.

If you have any access to repair OEM ducting then fine. Otherwise you need to add more ducting as access permits or live with it. Adding a space heater is the best immediate solution.

Check your basement storage around your fresh water and holding tanks
Some mhs have a vent opening in the duct work to heat the bays and keep tanks from freezing
Our Safari has this

If you go any place that has temps below 32°
You want to keep your tanks from freezing