Pulling from the front of a Class A

That makes no sense. No matter, though! If you got towed safely, end of story!

Bill.Satellite wrote:

J-Rooster wrote:
Not all motorhomes are pulled from the front! I own a 2004 Winnebago that has to be towed from the rear and the driveline has to be disconnected. I know this for a fact because my RV was towed into Lake Havasu many years ago when it was hit by a runaway truck!

Why would you have to disconnect the drive line when towed from the rear? Isn't the drive line off the ground?

It’s what the towing instructions said to do!

Really? You get a towing company with the right equipment and experience that thing would be out of there for sure. I haven't been around the family towing business for a lot of years but the last one I pulled out was a 45ft Monaco way off the road buried in the sand---winched out from the front.

J-Rooster wrote:
Not all motorhomes are pulled from the front! I own a 2004 Winnebago that has to be towed from the rear and the driveline has to be disconnected. I know this for a fact because my RV was towed into Lake Havasu many years ago when it was hit by a runaway truck!

Why would you have to disconnect the drive line when towed from the rear? Isn't the drive line off the ground?

Not all motorhomes are pulled from the front! I own a 2004 Winnebago that has to be towed from the rear and the driveline has to be disconnected. I know this for a fact because my RV was towed into Lake Havasu many years ago when it was hit by a runaway truck!

No, there's no good way to do it. That chassis is supposed to be picked with "bus bars" which are like a giant version of a regular automotive wheel-lift. But it also needs to be a long-reach version (commonly called a Euro-Stinger) to even make turns when hooked up that way. I don't think they approve picking at the axle.

Which means, there's no good winching option either. The best bet is to call for a "Rotator" truck with a spreader bar, then hoist from the wheels:

I don't think I have ever seen that many words strung together without any punctuation!

Yes, large blocks against frame to prevent cable or strap from coming into contact with fiberglass body may work.
I would be careful, even backing gravel trucks into area. They may sink faster then your rig!

I drive a gasser, (Front engine gasoline powered) but what was said above about towing with chain, cable or strap causing fiberglass damage still applies.

The tow trucks that have towed this RV from the front (3 of 'em, single breakdown) Break down site to first shop.. Wheel lift
Ship to campground when we decided we did not knwo if insurance woudl cover (it did) Wheel lift
Camp ground to shop that put in the new engine,, Wheel lift.

So everyone used a wheel lift

The only times we have cable towed was when it was stuck in sand... Twice, once front once rear. the tow cable was flat on the ground the tow truck did not move.

How long is the driveway? Put down 4" of #3s and then 4" of crusher run...that is all you need. Have the empty truck run/pack the 3s before putting the crusher run down.

You can pull from the front but you have to put blocks against something so the cable is lower than the bottom of the front cap.