Visualize not just the size of the coach entry door that the fridge will have to pass through to get old out and new in. Think of countertop corners, dinette bench backs, etc. You may have to lift it over, set it back down, etc.
I replaced an old Dometic RM763 with a newer bigger DM2852 (the larger version of the one you're pulling. Even though new was wider and taller, measurements from its specs said it'd come through the door. Luckily it actually did, but I ended up taking the doors and hinges off the 2852.
Actual mechanics were easy. A few screws on the front frame, two in the lower rear. Electrical was a 12VDC junction block, unplugging 120VAC. Gas connection was straighforward but I ended up deleting the gas valve at the back of the fridge. REMEMBER TO BUBBLE TEST FOR LEAKS when done.
Spend time looking at the Baffling and Venting part of the install instructions! You can easily find the original install was improper and you can improve the performance of the new one. Or... wonder why some odd-looking piece was in there, leave it out, and wonder why the new fridge doesn't cool right. That odd piece might've been part of required baffling.