Forum Discussion
bobndot
Apr 20, 2023Explorer II
Ok , GM chassis , good choice. Spend the money to replace any front-end parts that are near worn . If its in question, replace that part, its going to make a difference running ay max.
The OEM ‘bare chassis tow ratings’ of 9300 lbs are called baseline tow ratings.
When the coach/camper build gets added to a base chassis the weight alters the GVWR , how much weight you can haul on that chassis and the GCWR, how much weight you can tow once you determine the GVWR. Thats why it's a 3500 lb hitch.
But you can do the basic math and determine those GROSS ratings and get a general idea once you take the combo to a certified scale.
Just keep in mind, anytime you run an rv at max gross numbers you are going to compromise handling. This is not a problem when driving down a highway on a perfect weather day without deer or impaired drivers crossing your path . Emergency maneuvers while operating at full max gross is a very different ball game. Just be careful, you don’t want make ‘self weight alterations’ , it might shift all liability onto you.
The OEM ‘bare chassis tow ratings’ of 9300 lbs are called baseline tow ratings.
When the coach/camper build gets added to a base chassis the weight alters the GVWR , how much weight you can haul on that chassis and the GCWR, how much weight you can tow once you determine the GVWR. Thats why it's a 3500 lb hitch.
But you can do the basic math and determine those GROSS ratings and get a general idea once you take the combo to a certified scale.
Just keep in mind, anytime you run an rv at max gross numbers you are going to compromise handling. This is not a problem when driving down a highway on a perfect weather day without deer or impaired drivers crossing your path . Emergency maneuvers while operating at full max gross is a very different ball game. Just be careful, you don’t want make ‘self weight alterations’ , it might shift all liability onto you.
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